Rockfax Description
Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top. © Rockfax
C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957.
Hard Rock , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The Main Wall Mal Challenge , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Bogies Challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Hard Rock 2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , The post lockdown local list , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber? , 33 By 33 , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , 23 HVS routes for 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Avon GORGEous
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Cati | 12 May |
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βeta: Quite a bit of suspect rock on P2. Good climbing so should be OK to climb in between bad "patches", but care needed placing gear. Don't pull on the rocks at the top out, actually don't even breathe on them. Safe and easy to top out without using them. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Quite a bit of suspect rock on P2. Good climbing so should be OK to climb in between bad "patches", but care needed placing gear. Don't pull on the rocks at the top out, actually don't even breathe on them. Safe and easy to top out without using them. |
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rbh22 | 17 Apr |
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βeta: Looks to be crows nesting in the greenery a short way off route on the first pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Looks to be crows nesting in the greenery a short way off route on the first pitch. |
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Cyrees | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Broken hold above the overlap on P2. Take care and back up your gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Broken hold above the overlap on P2. Take care and back up your gear. |
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antoneh | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Pulled a big block off at the traverse left..looked solid, but what do I know. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pulled a big block off at the traverse left..looked solid, but what do I know. |
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Tall Oak | 17 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Loathed this the first time I went up and subsequently stayed clear from the gorge as thought it was all polished. Today however I loved everything about it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loathed this the first time I went up and subsequently stayed clear from the gorge as thought it was all polished. Today however I loved everything about it. |
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Steve Bartle | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Immediately above the 2nd belay is a sapling and at the base of it is a large juggy flake. Despite it being the obvious hold I would really avoid hauling on it or placing too much weight on it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Immediately above the 2nd belay is a sapling and at the base of it is a large juggy flake. Despite it being the obvious hold I would really avoid hauling on it or placing too much weight on it! |
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val.ismaili | 20 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Black tricam in the left pocket is better than the red tricam in the right pocket. | ||
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βeta: Black tricam in the left pocket is better than the red tricam in the right pocket. |
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hpm2105 | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Fantastic climb. P1: Start is a bit confusing and bold (I think I did a hybrid of the two options) but it gets progressively easier after that. P2: quite straightforward with good protection throughout. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climb. P1: Start is a bit confusing and bold (I think I did a hybrid of the two options) but it gets progressively easier after that. P2: quite straightforward with good protection throughout. |
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Colin Knowles | 29 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: The two ash belay trees at the base are suffering from ash dieback, as is the ash tree below the belay on pitch 1. | ||
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βeta: The two ash belay trees at the base are suffering from ash dieback, as is the ash tree below the belay on pitch 1. |
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Katsmiff | 6 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay. |
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Euan Todd | 1 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected. | ||
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βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))