Rockfax Description
A strict eliminate problem, essentially climbing Dolphin Belly Slap without the right arete. From hands in the back break, with feet above the very low ledges, take the fingery roof sidepull used on DBS with left hand, make a hard move to the lip holds with right hand, then dive around for the juggy break to finish. If climbed with a heel around the right arete at the back it's about f7B (and makes no sense as you're meant to be eliminating the arete). It is also possible to undercut to the lip directly from holds on the left which, although a decent problem, is still nowhere near as hard as the defined original sequence. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Eliminate - Dolphin Belly Slap without the arete. Originally done without heel at 7C+/8A. Can also be started further left on undercuts followed by a big span to the lip.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| harrison | 2 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I've been told the original beta was an attempt to campus it: feet on back wall, LH to sidepull, flick to RH on lip sloper (cutting feet), 1A lock-off to match, campus to top. afaik V10 was for this method if anyone wants the purist tick. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I've been told the original beta was an attempt to campus it: feet on back wall, LH to sidepull, flick to RH on lip sloper (cutting feet), 1A lock-off to match, campus to top. afaik V10 was for this method if anyone wants the purist tick. |
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Guidebooks for Almscliff
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The Matador
Grade: f7C+ ***
(Attermire Scar)