Rockfax Description
180m. The route starts at the foot of the slab and is marked by a bolt with some tat tied through it.
1) 5b, 35m. Quite a long pitch with a high first bolt. Follow the slab and drift right near the top, up a slightly grassy corner to a belay amongst the trees.
2) 5c, 45m. Another long pitch, which is better than it appears at first. The climbing is excellent and sustained and leads to another grassy belay.
3) 5c, 40m. Cross the grassy ledge, climb the slab above and step left 10m from the top in order to climb a final short wall and a belay on the ridge crest.
From this belay, downclimb a short gully on the northeast side of the ridge (this can be abseiled (15m) from the third belay if necessary) and walk back onto the west side of the ridge to reach the next belay.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb the slabby rib to the ridge crest.
5) 4a, 20m. Follow the ridge easily, in an excellent position to a 6m abseil on the West Face. From the foot of this, scramble up the grass to the final pitch.
6) 5a, 20m. An excellent finish up a slabby wall with a couple of funky moves near the start and easy slab climbing above. Abseil 6m onto the north side in order to get off the final pinnacle. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Alfrede | 11 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: First move is indeed surprisingly awkward but 6b is fantasy. Probably worth about 5c+! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First move is indeed surprisingly awkward but 6b is fantasy. Probably worth about 5c+! |
||||
Webster | 9 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: the very first move is the hardest on the route, more like 6b than 5b! maybe it is 5b when banked out with snow at the base of the crag? the final section of ridge crest is excellent! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the very first move is the hardest on the route, more like 6b than 5b! maybe it is 5b when banked out with snow at the base of the crag? the final section of ridge crest is excellent! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: D+ ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)