Rockfax Description
II, 450m, 5 - 6 hours. A famous route because it is a superb line on a popular peak taking in one of the most unusual mountain features you're likely to see. The 'table' after which the route is named is a huge lump of rock that toppled over many years ago but miraculously stayed perched on the ridge.
Start at the foot of the Couloir de la Table.
1) Climb the lower section of the couloir to reach a ramp-line leading leftwards to the ridge (possible section of easy mixed - follow easiest ground).
2) Climb the ramp-line over some occasionally loose rock and crest the ridge just below a large golden tower.
3) 4b. Go around the tower on the left and then follow the ridge crest (or just off it) to the Table itself. The final move onto the ledge which houses the Table is tricky (4b) but otherwise the terrain is quite steady.
4) 5a. Take a minute or so to ponder the Table - it really is a bizarre and miraculous feature. Having pondered, go to the wall against which the Table rests and climb onto it via a very physical pull. There are pegs in the wall and sticking a sling in one to act as a foothold is a good idea but there's no getting around the fact that a bit of grunt is required! The move was graded 4+ in old school grades most people agree on roughly 5a in today's money.
5) 4b. Step off the Table and climb the wall behind (4b, excellent). From here, follow the superb and exposed ridge to just above the col where the ridge joins the top of the Couloir de la Table. Downclimb (4b) or make a 5m abseil to reach the col.
6) Continue along the ridge more easily, dropping off to the right where it gets tricky, to the south summit of the Aiguille du Tour.
Descent - Descend the East Face - p.69. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is worth noting that when heavily snowed up the route is an interesting mixed climb around Scottish II/III and probably worth AD+. Obviously be aware of any avalanche danger in these conditions.
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression , Alps 2023 , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine , TM Alps , Neonatal Alpinist 2023 , Fredventures Alps 24
User | Date | Notes | ||
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it624 | 6 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: As others have said, the choss at the start is pretty dangerous - both if you head up the couloir or if you go up the left to avoid it. Stay well out of the way of parties above, and be extremely careful. The 5m ab near the col after the descent from the table is worth it - a party in front of us needed a helicopter rescue after a slip trying to downclimb here. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As others have said, the choss at the start is pretty dangerous - both if you head up the couloir or if you go up the left to avoid it. Stay well out of the way of parties above, and be extremely careful. The 5m ab near the col after the descent from the table is worth it - a party in front of us needed a helicopter rescue after a slip trying to downclimb here. |
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mchardski | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Beware of the loose rock on the 1st pitch when you get off the snow. If there are groups ahead DO NOT get into the firing line. I got on the rock just right of a group of 2, selecting a very camm-able but slightly more technical crack system rather than the easy chossy ground. This kept us out of the firing line of the group just ahead. I was happy for this decision as they knocked off a killer block. My line was pretty solid but not perfect, esp when topping out the crack at 10m, there is a huge unstable block that you do not want to pull on, instead reach up with axe and hook the solid rock behind the ledge. If this optional is unavailable I would simply back off or wait lower down the couloir until the 1st section is clear of climbers. Above the choss the route is great. Kept technical axe out all day and was a revelation.perhaps cheating but was in constant use for hooks and bringing up my 2nd. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beware of the loose rock on the 1st pitch when you get off the snow. If there are groups ahead DO NOT get into the firing line. I got on the rock just right of a group of 2, selecting a very camm-able but slightly more technical crack system rather than the easy chossy ground. This kept us out of the firing line of the group just ahead. I was happy for this decision as they knocked off a killer block. My line was pretty solid but not perfect, esp when topping out the crack at 10m, there is a huge unstable block that you do not want to pull on, instead reach up with axe and hook the solid rock behind the ledge. If this optional is unavailable I would simply back off or wait lower down the couloir until the 1st section is clear of climbers. Above the choss the route is great. Kept technical axe out all day and was a revelation.perhaps cheating but was in constant use for hooks and bringing up my 2nd. |
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Webster | 21 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: if in doubt, stay left of the ridge crest before reaching the table, it feels like you are missing out but its the most logical route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: if in doubt, stay left of the ridge crest before reaching the table, it feels like you are missing out but its the most logical route |
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GHawksworth | 25 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: A lot of loose rocks which can be unnerving but worth it for the top half! Bring cams (.5-1 and possibly 2) and lots of slings | ||
Show beta
βeta: A lot of loose rocks which can be unnerving but worth it for the top half! Bring cams (.5-1 and possibly 2) and lots of slings |
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Grade: AD 3 ***
(Aiguille du Chardonnet)