Climbs 107
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces N
Crag Lough VS © JDal
Crag features
"An austere crag with a long climbing history - the most impressive cliff in Northumberland some would argue. The well-preserved remains of the Roman wall and the superb views northwards add to the ambience of the place." - Rockfax
Routes of quality can be found across all grades from VDiff to E4 (and above, arguably). The whin sill dolerite lends itself to strong lines and excellent crack climbing.
Conditions are best in summer given the north-facing aspect of the cliff, and lack of friction when the rock is damp. Some loose blocks may be encountered, and should be treated with caution.
Approach notes
Pay and display parking available at Steel Rigg and The Sill.
No Access Issues
The crag is not mapped as open country under CRoW, something that may surprise anyone who has climbed there. It is, however, in the ownership of the National Trust and access made available by the trust. BMC is taking up the CRoW mapping issue with Natural England. Please be aware peregrine have nested at the crag. If you observe them during the Spring months, please do not disturb them during this sensitive period - give the nest site a wide berth.
| I found a house key on unusual key ring yesterday at base of crag at eastern end. Does anyone know the owner? johnjb - 31/May/15 |
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| Lots of great lines (especially in the easier grades)but some of the harder routes are, despite the 2012 clean-up noted below, pretty dirty/lichenous. frazoir - 02/Jul/13 |
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| There will be a clean-up of the crag (removal of excess vegetation) in September 15th 2012
More details here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=514066 The Mole - 13/Aug/12 |
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| Appears to be a variety of birds nesting in a variety of places (some not easily know until mid climb). Also appears to be some damaged nests (such as on Pinnacle Face), please be obserant of birds nesting and very careful when climbing . josephgrimwade - 23/Apr/11 |
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| Lots of excellent VS, HVS and E1's and don't be put off by appearances e.g. Wooden Tops E15b - looks nothing but is great fun. Did my very first E1 here: Whinstone Churchill [July 1987]; in the next edition of the Guidebook it had been elevated to E2, sports a very committing & poorly protected move left at half height but is immensely satisfying, once done! allmag - 16/Aug/07 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers The Mole and Henry Barrett