Climbs 53
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 4m a.s.l
Faces all
Linney Head contains some brilliant routes, mainly in the E1 to E4 range, up the leaning walls to the east of the former Coastguard Lookout.
Approach from Gupton Gate on the track marked by white posts in 60 mins, or 80 mins from Stack Rocks.
The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not firing (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). The BMC, MOD, the National Park and local climbers have negotiated putting some belay stakes above this crag. Please do not place your own stakes - each stake placement checked for dangerous ordnance and approved by conservation bodies. Putting your own stakes in may be dangerous and will definitely jeopardise our access relationship with the MOD and CCW.
When approaching from Gupton Gate,in the nesting season (March to July) Please note there is a restricted area on the middle section of Frainslake Beach due to nesting Ring Plovers - please stay on top of the dunes, or at low tide, low down on the beach when passing this area.
Thank you!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction is in Linney Gully (South Zawn) (The Linney Head chough nest climbing restrictions have been lifted as of 3rd July for 2023 season)
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