Climbs 38
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 464m a.s.l
Faces all
Note: Climbing on the North facing crags is currently forbidden, there is no problem on the south facing crags (apart from the heat in summer). This page will be updated should the situation change.
The most obvious path goes straight on, initially on the level before rising to the north face, about 10 minutes from hemitage Notre Dame. You can follow this path round the crag, along the east side to the upper south face. This is also the path to take if you wish to visit the summit of the ruined chateau d'Ultrera.
A quicker route to both the upper and lower south faces is to take the rising path on the right, immediately after passing the hermitage and crossing the steps protecting the drainage channel. It leads you uphill in an easterly direction and after less than 10 minutes you arrive at a col amongst small trees, with a new wire fence stopping you moving directly forward. There is a signpost here and the spot height on the top of it is 497m). The main path turns right (sign-posted), but you need to move left for a few metres in order to use the facility to pass beyond the wire fence, then move back right for 5-6 metres and despite the yellow 'X' on the rock, drop down through the trees on a faint path for less than five minutes to an obvious scoop (just below some rocks/dolmen). At this point follow the path on the left upwards to the upper south face (2 minutes), or carry on down through the trees for a further 5 minutes to reach the bottom of the main face routes. The most recognisable feature of which is the leftward leading ramp of pitch one of the route called 'Pascal'.
Climbing on the north face is banned at the moment, no problem on the south face.
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