There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The blunt central arete has a thin flake crack. Tricky moves lead to the beckoning holds, above which things rapidly ease off. © Rockfax
FA. Don Whillans 1962.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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StatementOfFox | 16 Dec, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beta: lower crack takes offset nuts well! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Beta: lower crack takes offset nuts well! |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: nice climbing once you commit. interesting moves using the big pocket on the right of the arete | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nice climbing once you commit. interesting moves using the big pocket on the right of the arete |
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cmsg | 10 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice stuff, but soft touch. The protection is a tiny bit sketchy in places but the low tricky move (easy 5b?) is well protected. If it's an HVS it's only just. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice stuff, but soft touch. The protection is a tiny bit sketchy in places but the low tricky move (easy 5b?) is well protected. If it's an HVS it's only just. |
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Jus | 12 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: And a very nice move it is too. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: And a very nice move it is too. |
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leon | 28 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: only really one hard move on this and thats really well protected. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: only really one hard move on this and thats really well protected. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)