Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The blunt central arete has a thin flake crack. Tricky moves lead to the beckoning holds, above which things rapidly ease off. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
StatementOfFox 16 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Beta: lower crack takes offset nuts well!
Show beta
βeta: Beta: lower crack takes offset nuts well!
Jon Greengrass 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice climbing once you commit. interesting moves using the big pocket on the right of the arete
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice climbing once you commit. interesting moves using the big pocket on the right of the arete
cmsg 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice stuff, but soft touch. The protection is a tiny bit sketchy in places but the low tricky move (easy 5b?) is well protected. If it's an HVS it's only just.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice stuff, but soft touch. The protection is a tiny bit sketchy in places but the low tricky move (easy 5b?) is well protected. If it's an HVS it's only just.
Jus 12 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: And a very nice move it is too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And a very nice move it is too.
leon 28 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: only really one hard move on this and thats really well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: only really one hard move on this and thats really well protected.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 93
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 95
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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