There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Good moves lead into and up the shallow left-slanting groove. © Rockfax
FA. Robin Miller, Peter Steward, Steve Cannon 1976.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Frank the Husky | 9 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: the gear is solid, and the moves are fair at the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: the gear is solid, and the moves are fair at the grade. |
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jim jones | 18 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Did this again today after a gap of 10 years, I always thought it very hard for the grade, found another way of doing the crux which makes it much easier. I'm only 5' 7", the gear is also good. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did this again today after a gap of 10 years, I always thought it very hard for the grade, found another way of doing the crux which makes it much easier. I'm only 5' 7", the gear is also good. |
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John Gillott | 15 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: It's a really nice route. It's probably a little height dependent; for the short E1 might be fair. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's a really nice route. It's probably a little height dependent; for the short E1 might be fair. |
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Andy Hobson | 14 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Gear straightforward to place, not strenuous, fair at HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gear straightforward to place, not strenuous, fair at HVS. |
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Fiend | 13 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Don't you lot own any Peenuts or small cams?!?! Easy for HVS with good gear where it's needed. Nice moves though, good for it's short height. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Don't you lot own any Peenuts or small cams?!?! Easy for HVS with good gear where it's needed. Nice moves though, good for it's short height. |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: E1 for. a good nut slot low down is not of much use then a technical move to flat hold from which to try and place runners(which are good) for the finish without getting horrendously pumped while a long way of the ground. Very nice moves above your gear lead to the top . | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: E1 for. a good nut slot low down is not of much use then a technical move to flat hold from which to try and place runners(which are good) for the finish without getting horrendously pumped while a long way of the ground. Very nice moves above your gear lead to the top . |
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Jus | 12 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: 2 bits of poorish gear with 5b climbing. HVS I think not. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 bits of poorish gear with 5b climbing. HVS I think not. |
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Furzy Sleight | 28 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Definately only HVS | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definately only HVS |
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Gripped | 10 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Okay if you have the right sized Alien!? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Okay if you have the right sized Alien!? |
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Robo | 30 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: How is 5b technical climbing, above quite poor runners that are stenuous to place HVS? I've definately climbg E1's harder than this. Good route though! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: How is 5b technical climbing, above quite poor runners that are stenuous to place HVS? I've definately climbg E1's harder than this. Good route though! |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)