Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
Good moves lead into and up the shallow left-slanting groove. © Rockfax

FA. Robin Miller, Peter Steward, Steve Cannon 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Frank the Husky 9 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: the gear is solid, and the moves are fair at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the gear is solid, and the moves are fair at the grade.
jim jones 18 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Did this again today after a gap of 10 years, I always thought it very hard for the grade, found another way of doing the crux which makes it much easier. I'm only 5' 7", the gear is also good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this again today after a gap of 10 years, I always thought it very hard for the grade, found another way of doing the crux which makes it much easier. I'm only 5' 7", the gear is also good.
John Gillott 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It's a really nice route. It's probably a little height dependent; for the short E1 might be fair.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a really nice route. It's probably a little height dependent; for the short E1 might be fair.
Andy Hobson 14 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Gear straightforward to place, not strenuous, fair at HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: Gear straightforward to place, not strenuous, fair at HVS.
Fiend 13 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don't you lot own any Peenuts or small cams?!?! Easy for HVS with good gear where it's needed. Nice moves though, good for it's short height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't you lot own any Peenuts or small cams?!?! Easy for HVS with good gear where it's needed. Nice moves though, good for it's short height.
Jon Greengrass 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: E1 for. a good nut slot low down is not of much use then a technical move to flat hold from which to try and place runners(which are good) for the finish without getting horrendously pumped while a long way of the ground. Very nice moves above your gear lead to the top .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E1 for. a good nut slot low down is not of much use then a technical move to flat hold from which to try and place runners(which are good) for the finish without getting horrendously pumped while a long way of the ground. Very nice moves above your gear lead to the top .
Jus 12 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 2 bits of poorish gear with 5b climbing. HVS I think not.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 bits of poorish gear with 5b climbing. HVS I think not.
Furzy Sleight 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definately only HVS
βeta?
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βeta: Definately only HVS
Gripped 10 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Okay if you have the right sized Alien!?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Okay if you have the right sized Alien!?
Robo 30 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: How is 5b technical climbing, above quite poor runners that are stenuous to place HVS? I've definately climbg E1's harder than this. Good route though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How is 5b technical climbing, above quite poor runners that are stenuous to place HVS? I've definately climbg E1's harder than this. Good route though!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 80
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pisa Super Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)

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