Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Precarious climbing, on sloping holds, up the right side of the wall, starting up the short crack/slot and continuing in the same line. Avoid the arete for the full effect. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Davies 1979.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , The Eal List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Michael Hood 15 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The Rockfax description above says "Avoid the arete for the full effect", but really, if you use the arete then you shouldn't get the tick. The arete of the crack to the right is definitely off route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax description above says "Avoid the arete for the full effect", but really, if you use the arete then you shouldn't get the tick. The arete of the crack to the right is definitely off route.
Paul Tomo 24 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1.
cmsg 27 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arĂȘte, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arĂȘte, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say.
Joe Costello 20 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS.
Joe Costello 9 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once!
drcorbasisgod 7 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer.
βeta?
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βeta: This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer.
chris sm 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt more like HVS.
stonewall 2 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear.
GeckoGeek 26 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade
LakesWinter 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think
Tyler 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 210
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 203
Votes cast 193
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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