The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
A traditional grit HVS, the enticing roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on! © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown late 1950s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 50 cracks to Squamish , Thrutch and Clutch , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Proper Cracks UK , Memorable Climbs , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AliWardrope | 13 Apr |
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βeta: Kestrel nesting again this year - please avoid this and surrounding routes til end of July | βeta? | |
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βeta: Kestrel nesting again this year - please avoid this and surrounding routes til end of July |
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Niamh Gibson | 1 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Birds nest under roof - avoid climbing this for a few weeks | βeta? | |
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βeta: Birds nest under roof - avoid climbing this for a few weeks |
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Guy Atkinson | 1 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Kestrel nest in the middle of the route, avoid for a while. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Kestrel nest in the middle of the route, avoid for a while. |
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Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 21 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook | ||
Show beta
βeta: Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook |
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Fiend | 22 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones. |
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Ram MkiV | 1 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward. | ||
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βeta: Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward. |
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MeMeMe | 1 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine. |
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Jon Greengrass | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip. |
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Garan | 1 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers. |
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Chris Fitzhugh | 24 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect! |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)