The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
A tough little expedition - the easiest way to the summit, but not that easy and best done in two short pitches to avoid a rope-work nightmare.
1) 4c, 6m. Follow Croton Oil then move right to a crack,which leads to ledges behind the tower.
2) 4c, 14m. From the right end of these, hand traverse the break strenuously out right to the rickety flake to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Don Wooller 1950.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Peak Traverses
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
DannyC | 22 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: realitively hard for vs but the move isn't too hard if you commit rather than pump yourself out as i did the first time i tried this a few months back. went back yesterday and it felt fine, though not much easier than croton oil. rope drag is an issue. 2(or3?) pitches for sure. lovely route. enjoy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: realitively hard for vs but the move isn't too hard if you commit rather than pump yourself out as i did the first time i tried this a few months back. went back yesterday and it felt fine, though not much easier than croton oil. rope drag is an issue. 2(or3?) pitches for sure. lovely route. enjoy. |
||||
Reds | 20 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great fun - a bit of a laugh battling your way up the start to find that you are still only three feet off the ground! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great fun - a bit of a laugh battling your way up the start to find that you are still only three feet off the ground! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Millstone Edge)