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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree  are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.

A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag.  2018

2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).

The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!

75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the most popular lower-grade outings in the Lake District.
1) 25m. Climb the chimney past a pinnacle to a ledge. Take the wall behind to another ledge. The opposite side of the chimney can also be climbed starting on the other side of the gate.
Variations (left to right) - Starting up a polished wall and hand crack, VS 4c. A left-slanting crack, S 4a. A short wall with a thin seam on its right side that can be climbed on good holds at Diff.
2) 35m. Climb the blunt buttress on generally good holds taking the easiest line. Belay on a large grassy terrace.
3) 10m. Walk back to the right side of the continuation wall.
4) 16m. Climb leftwards up the line of good holds and then on in the same line to a shallow scoop that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Good short pitches, interspersed with large plateaus making the route escapable and suitable for parties of beginners. Well situated.

Ticklists

Climbing with kids , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , The Long Routes , Nuts of Legends , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , STAUMC Ticklist , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Chasing Stars across the UK , British Rock Tour April '24 , SMac the rock , Matt's Bucketlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Someone has gone to the trouble of rigging a decent abseil on 9.5mm rope and some absolute box full of tools has nicked the abseil carabiner or maillon and abbed directly off the rope... Scum. Obviously, we replaced the missing carabiner with a new abseil carabiner. It is a silver twistlock. Let's see how long it lasts. 'sti catsi! If you nick it, I hope you are constipated for a month...
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βeta: Someone has gone to the trouble of rigging a decent abseil on 9.5mm rope and some absolute box full of tools has nicked the abseil carabiner or maillon and abbed directly off the rope... Scum. Obviously, we replaced the missing carabiner with a new abseil carabiner. It is a silver twistlock. Let's see how long it lasts. 'sti catsi! If you nick it, I hope you are constipated for a month...
Lewis Callum Black 21 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: We managed to climb quickly in a party of four, there is some great tat set up at the top of pitch two, we scrambled down to this and abseiled into the gully to walk off. Finished at the ODG for a shandy and some scampi fries, great day out.
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βeta: We managed to climb quickly in a party of four, there is some great tat set up at the top of pitch two, we scrambled down to this and abseiled into the gully to walk off. Finished at the ODG for a shandy and some scampi fries, great day out.
gazj1986 17 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed the hand crack VS alternative, steep and polished with some big gear needed....I didn't have this. Took pitch one and three although took every inch of a 50m rope on pitch three.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed the hand crack VS alternative, steep and polished with some big gear needed....I didn't have this. Took pitch one and three although took every inch of a 50m rope on pitch three.
Salvo1 9 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed as a four, Lee & I introducing our wives to roped climbing. Great route, polished yes in places but can be avoided if wanted. Three good nut placements at top belay. Think me& Lee enjoyed it more than the girls lol
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βeta: Climbed as a four, Lee & I introducing our wives to roped climbing. Great route, polished yes in places but can be avoided if wanted. Three good nut placements at top belay. Think me& Lee enjoyed it more than the girls lol
raussmf 10 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead all pitches. Tipped it down for the long pitch but holds everywhere!
βeta?
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βeta: Lead all pitches. Tipped it down for the long pitch but holds everywhere!
msiegel 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: not a lot of placement options on the \"glassy\" belay at the top. generally should be fine if there isn\'t any other traffic at the top.
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βeta: not a lot of placement options on the "glassy" belay at the top. generally should be fine if there isn't any other traffic at the top.
MattFleming 20 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Simul with Maya, then dropped my sock and shoe off the top pitch, numpty
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βeta: Simul with Maya, then dropped my sock and shoe off the top pitch, numpty
liensiwel 18 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely day. Last climbed MFB over 20 years ago. New first pitch and first time up the final wall. Both feel harder than the rest of the route.
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βeta: Lovely day. Last climbed MFB over 20 years ago. New first pitch and first time up the final wall. Both feel harder than the rest of the route.
deacondeacon 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Care needed on descent :)
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βeta: Very nice route. Care needed on descent :)

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Votes cast 225
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Giant's Crawl (Summer)

Grade: D ***
(Dow Crag)

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