Restricted Access
Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
One of Gower's top routes that features some of the best exposure on offer in the area. A 'must do' for any climber. Follow the groove heading up and left to underneath the widest part of the capping overhang (possible belay). Tiptoe right using polished hand holds (clipping the wooden wedge for luck!) and pull over the overhang at its weakest point on surprisingly unhelpful holds and finish direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.
E Pardoe, R Griffiths Feb/1967.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Gower S-HVS *+ , Orange Spot Gower , CUMC Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Welcome to CUMC , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , Jimbo 2024 , Gower Classic Rock , Gower
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 11 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: We took a somewhat detour as finished up Horsis. Made sure that when we went up Horsis we topped out on Osiris (mix match). Love the wooden peg. Did we clip? Yes, though its quite clear it wouldn\'t arrest a duck\'s fart. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: We took a somewhat detour as finished up Horsis. Made sure that when we went up Horsis we topped out on Osiris (mix match). Love the wooden peg. Did we clip? Yes, though its quite clear it wouldn't arrest a duck's fart. |
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| Glen Stidever | 10 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don’t forget to clip the piece of wood! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Don’t forget to clip the piece of wood! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade
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Scavenger
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Three Cliffs Bay)