Rockfax Description
A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are old but alternative gear options are available. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks. Move up the cracks and then head diagonally right across the wall on good holds to another left-trending line of quartz cracks, good spike runner above. Climb the cracks to a wider section and follow this to below some thin cracks that head up the wall. Climb the wall and thin cracks, past pegs, to a short thin crack that heads slightly right to a break. Follow the break left to a niche and the top just above. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn 16.5.86 16/May/1986.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Good E4s , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Preparation for the Resurrection , South West in Extremis , Connor and Georgia's Super Climbing Extravaganza
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Albachoss | 12 May |
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βeta: May 2024 replaced ab tat with new static | βeta? | |
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βeta: May 2024 replaced ab tat with new static |
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Misha | 16 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: June 2022 - the ab tat is acceptable (oldish static plus new 5mm cord) but could do with new rope / static. We only had cord, which won’t have added much. | βeta? | |
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βeta: June 2022 - the ab tat is acceptable (oldish static plus new 5mm cord) but could do with new rope / static. We only had cord, which won’t have added much. |
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Fiend | 12 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think. |
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NuclearNev | 1 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you! |
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psicobloc | 26 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though. |
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Climber_Bill | 26 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about. |
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DaveHK | 14 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4! |
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Dave Musgrove | 2 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb! (P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.) Dave | βeta? | |
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βeta: The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb! (P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.) Dave |
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Al Evans | 2 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Basher's Harbour)