Rockfax Description
E4. A fine climb, full rack needed. The crux pitch is substantially harder than the rest of the route.1) 5+, 36m. From the right-hand end of the ledge, climb up a slab, then traverse across rightwards to the cave.2) 6a, 40m. Leave the cave by its left edge and climb up the long rib above to another cave.3) 6a+, 36m. Step left from the bottom of this cave and climb a left-trending groove to its top.4) 7a, 36m. The big one - and it's not really aid-able! Follow the arduous curving groove above to a good ledge at the top.5) 5+, 20m. Climb a corner, then move right to belay.6) 5, 40m. Climb a short groove to a pillar. Belay at the top.7) 4, 45m. Move up then left to join Llobet/Bertomeu to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Ernesto L?pez, Koke P?rez, Enrique Barber? 1979.
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Grade: 7a ***
(Sierra de Toix)