Rockfax Description
An fine route up an elegant buttress. Start at the left arete then spiral up and right following cracks to the opposite arete. Place small wires before following the parallel diagonal cracks to an exposed and awkward finale back on the left-hand arete. Excellent throughout and very varied climbing. © Rockfax
FA. Al SImpson 1978.
BMC staffordshire slab exam , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Jaimey's tricky slab list , The Eal List , E1's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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gav p | 4 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Good gear at start of the traverse. Moves on the traverse are very thin for your hands, but with decent feet, just don't lunge for the jug at the end! Tough for the grade, almost worth E2. | ||
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βeta: Good gear at start of the traverse. Moves on the traverse are very thin for your hands, but with decent feet, just don't lunge for the jug at the end! Tough for the grade, almost worth E2. |
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GrahamD | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: There is nothing actually hard on this route - probably only just 5b. Just the commitment of the traverse gives it the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is nothing actually hard on this route - probably only just 5b. Just the commitment of the traverse gives it the grade. |
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nate | 18 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Decided to do this using one rope, not sure why, but it was a bit more interesting with all the rope drag. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Decided to do this using one rope, not sure why, but it was a bit more interesting with all the rope drag. |
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samwelli | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Really enjoyable, gear spaced but good, traverse is fairly intense with route easing once the final arete is gained. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really enjoyable, gear spaced but good, traverse is fairly intense with route easing once the final arete is gained. |
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ABark | 1 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Awesome route, the parallel cracks are very committing and I only realised once I had crossed the buttress that my last bit of gear was 15ft away and only about 3ft below me! Final move a stretch for the short. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome route, the parallel cracks are very committing and I only realised once I had crossed the buttress that my last bit of gear was 15ft away and only about 3ft below me! Final move a stretch for the short. |
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chris j | 30 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Scary traverse back left!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Scary traverse back left!! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Skyline)