Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
Some tough moves are needed to pass the peg. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Retro bolted early 2016 by Ian Dunn, now officially a 6c/6c+ sport route. (Whereas for the previous 30 years it had just been masquerading as one. GM [moderator])
FA. Tony Burnell, Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1986.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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BenSends | 11 May |
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βeta: Left side of the anchor is loose and needs to be tightened ASAP! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Left side of the anchor is loose and needs to be tightened ASAP! |
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Sean_J | 25 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Needs a sport grade to be given on UKC | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs a sport grade to be given on UKC |
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teddy | 17 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Unobvious start just left of Bolt Revolt, rock 6 in good flake for right hand, then clip first peg. The top moves past 2nd peg are tricky - careful on the death flake by the belay, wouldn't want to pull on it until glued in position. Alternatively crank on small pocket/edge for RH just left of flake directly to chain. About 6c+ to pinkpoint with gear in place. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Unobvious start just left of Bolt Revolt, rock 6 in good flake for right hand, then clip first peg. The top moves past 2nd peg are tricky - careful on the death flake by the belay, wouldn't want to pull on it until glued in position. Alternatively crank on small pocket/edge for RH just left of flake directly to chain. About 6c+ to pinkpoint with gear in place. |
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Daimon - Rockfax | 16 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is not a Sport route. But a poor Route. Needs bolting. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is not a Sport route. But a poor Route. Needs bolting. |
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Castleberg Crag)