Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at f6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short climbers). Swing left then gain a standing position in the break with difficulty. The upper section then follows the thin crack and gradually eases. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Wishlist , Extreme 2018 , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , E1's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Joe Costello 14 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta
Joe Costello 14 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list.
Fiend 26 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack.
Alex Mason 9 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style!
Show beta
βeta: yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style!
JR 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft
GDes 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break!
Show beta
βeta: Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break!
The Pylon King 27 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Wicked!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wicked!
laaljohn 9 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-(
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-(

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 177
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 173
Votes cast 134
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Left Unconquerable

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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