Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Go up the flake-crack then shuffle up left to a ledge and climb the arete. Linking into Parasite is worth HVS 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
UKB Shark 25 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Reachy. Not many VS’s where I’ve used a mono! ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Reachy. Not many VS’s where I’ve used a mono! ?
Shaun climbs 92 16 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Great route would like to lead it at some point
βeta?
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βeta: Great route would like to lead it at some point
milanboez 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nice stopper move unless you're tall!
βeta?
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βeta: Nice stopper move unless you're tall!
John R Coller 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Protection was good, felt a bit reachy for me at 5\' 10, would be hard route for anyone any shorter.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Protection was good, felt a bit reachy for me at 5' 10, would be hard route for anyone any shorter.
THE.WALRUS 2 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The crux move is probably worth 5a if you're less that 5'10 in height - with gear at your feet. I shuffled over to the right and places a cam in one of the cracks of Paradise Wall at about head height before making the move. Great route.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux move is probably worth 5a if you're less that 5'10 in height - with gear at your feet. I shuffled over to the right and places a cam in one of the cracks of Paradise Wall at about head height before making the move. Great route.
Graham Booth 4 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not even close to a 5a move, bomber cams at feet, good side pull and all over very quickly, just don’t go too far left to the arête.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not even close to a 5a move, bomber cams at feet, good side pull and all over very quickly, just don’t go too far left to the arête.
Wilbur 17 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
βeta?
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βeta: they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
Joe Costello 17 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
Wilbur 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sandbag for the short!
βeta?
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βeta: sandbag for the short!
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
βeta?
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βeta: Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
Mr Pink 2 17 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one. I took the line described/shown in PGE, well worthy of its grade (if you just starting out on VS do Paradise wall first)
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
Dale Berry 20 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 277
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 262
Votes cast 247
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
High Neb Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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