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Recommended hold sets for steep training walls

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 alanblyth 13 Apr 2024

I just finished a 45 degree training wall setup and excitedly slapped on some Core Gritstone Jugs.

I’m immediately finding these big new holds are torture for the skin, especially with any dynamic movement.

Second hand holds that I have picked up from climbing walls are much better and I’ll pursue more of these.

Any recommendations of favourite hold/sets for steep walls that can be lapped without a big hit on skin? I’m attempting to set in the V2-V6 range. (I also considered buying a sanding table and some hard wood to produce my own, but with work/family pressures a speedier and likely better solution is preferable)

Experience of others most appreciated!


In reply to alanblyth:

Why not buy a wooden hold set? I’ve got a 45 degree woodie and although I do have some resin holds on there the vast majority of my climbing is on the wooden holds, otherwise skin becomes a limiting factor and that’s not really the point of a board setup. There are loads of amazing and skilled people turning these holds, obviously hardwood/ beastmaker are the most well known but I really rate stronghold as Rick is a really nice bloke and can adapt to what you want e.g. screw on/ t nut/ bigger/ smaller/ more jugs or pinches or whatever etc.

https://www.strongholds.co.uk/product-page/board-set-1

 jezb1 13 Apr 2024
In reply to alanblyth:

Wooden holds all the way!

I've got a mix of Hardwood Holds and Crusher ones on my board, plus some home made ones.

 James Malloch 13 Apr 2024
In reply to alanblyth:

I also have wooden holds. I got my first set from James at Taylor Made holds. I said the wall and angle and type of grades I wanted and he sent a bunch of suitable holds.

 teapot 13 Apr 2024
In reply to alanblyth:

Definitely go for wood - they are pricey but the best for training on. Save your skin for outdoors!

If you go for wood decide whether you are going to allow feet follow. Some opt for separate foot holds but I prefer feet follow. 

If you are going to use them for feet then go for hard wood as soft wood holds tend to break under foot pressure! 

Remember you can make your own - for simple edges and pinches! Remember the best training board in the world (School Room 50) has mainly home made holds!

 ianstevens 14 Apr 2024
In reply to James Malloch:

> I also have wooden holds. I got my first set from James at Taylor Made holds. I said the wall and angle and type of grades I wanted and he sent a bunch of suitable holds.

Another recommendation for James, best holds going and tailored (hehe) for what you need. 

 ianstevens 14 Apr 2024
In reply to teapot:

> Definitely go for wood - they are pricey but the best for training on. Save your skin for outdoors!

> If you go for wood decide whether you are going to allow feet follow. Some opt for separate foot holds but I prefer feet follow. 

Interesting, and definitely not the majority choice for wood holds. I'd get specific footholds (also because you can make them small and difficult) - and here you can mix and match wood and resin. 

> If you are going to use them for feet then go for hard wood as soft wood holds tend to break under foot pressure! 

> Remember you can make your own - for simple edges and pinches! Remember the best training board in the world (School Room 50) has mainly home made holds!

In reply to alanblyth:

Wataaah make a set called Dojo that uses a finer foam than standard so when poured is kinder on the skin. 

Really cool shapes and fun to climb on.

 RyanOsborne 14 Apr 2024
In reply to alanblyth:

Have you tried sandpaper on the holds? When I've bought new ones for my wall they tend to be too abrasive but one or two wipes with 220 grit sand paper and it really takes the sharpness off, more like used but not worn out holds. 

OP alanblyth 14 Apr 2024
In reply to alanblyth:

Thanks for all the recommendations - I think I’ll definitely order some wood holds and will try some light sanding on a resin jug to see if it gives the desired result,


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