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Andy Turner07 Apr 2004
I'm off to the Alps again at the end of May to have another crack at Mont Blanc with Steve. Last year was a joke, you know the story hot weather, rock fall, etc. This year we're hoping to increase our chances by going early. Anyway we're also on a tight budget and were wondering if anyone knows of and has contact details of good campsites in St Gervais. Were planning to camp low for a couple of days and then move our tent progressively higher every couple of days doing some higher walks and climbs inbetween to acclimatise..... Any suggestions.......
OP robinb07 Apr 2004
When up high, is it cool to camp, if your tent is up after dusk, and down at dawn, or there abouts? Is that whats classified as a bivvi by the french?
The only camp site in St.Gervais as far as im aware is nice. I cant remember the price, so id assume its not too expensive.
A good plave to acclimatiseis the Hunters hut (sometimes called the baroque hut), spend a night there, the next day walk to tete rousse or the glacier and have a prat about doing snow skills, (you could carry some kit up if you like to save such a slog the next day) then back down to the hunters hut for a second night.
This cost £ sweet FA, as the huts unmanned, and over two days gets you acclimatised well for the third day for a legger to the goute (resonably expensive if you sleep in the hut).
Cheapest way to go up the mountian in comfort (i found anyway)
There is a campsite a little further up the valley towards nord de la gorge called 'le pontet' its cheap and very clean, showers, cafe and great cheap restaurant down the road at the lifts to Mont Joly.
From this camp site I recommend the routes up the TMB to the conscrits hut, never too busy as its way west of MB, from there do the dome du miage and bionassay to MB and then maybe down to the midi. This a great long route which can be escaped from in several directions if needed and take you past some great intermediatery climbs if thats what you want.
Can be done with just two bivvies or more if needed/wanted.
I like this route for a plod as you get the feeling of a long trip up high and the changing view is spectacular, weather permitting.
The main factor is this is not a rockfall route and only in extreme climate is it unsafe (last august it wasnt!).
Can give you route details and timings etc if you want, the route up the TMB is not all that clear but easy when you know the route.
Try and get to Les Contamines as well if you can, it's a really pretty wee village. Tybrez is a good bar I have a couple of mates living there so could onpass their info if you wanted a guide around.
This is the route I would take and it makes for a long but enjoyable plod across MB west to East, many alternatives arise which can be used as escape routes.
--This is quite long, I will put a condensed note version at the bottom that if needed can be printed as 'take with you' note.
There are clear sign postings for the TMB route, you know your at the right spot as there is a small hut with water point and tourist info on. Now the TMB is a maze on this side and with a 1:25 map great nav skills and good french you are still likely to head off up the wrong route. If your going up rather than round MB the best route is to take the Cugnon path which from the road heads SSE up the valley, it then splits about 70m in, take the left fork that doubles back, follow this route through many switchbacks, take no more forks. After a solid 3-4 hours (yes, steep and hard, I have done this in 30ºc+ carrying 25Kg pack!) you will arrive above the tree line with a small copse infront. Here the route has two forks, one heading to the rocks high up on the left, (cant remember the name of this crag but it will be marked as 'escalades' as its the route for cimbing the crag) the other leads on at a more sedate incline to the copse, take this route (its actually the more logical continuation of the route already on). This route will bring you up under the Tre La tete Hut (more of a hotel). You will see it up ahead from the fork.
A quick stop at the Tre La Tete for water etc, other than wild water which isnt too common, this is that last descent water stop before the conscrits hut.
Head up the obvious valley, following the well marked path, up ahead you will start to see the tre la tete glacier. When you reach the point where you first see the snout of the glacier keep and eye out for the route down to it, a seperate path leads on up on the left, there is sometimes a stick left on large boulder indicating the proper route, but sticks and dogs....! My first time I followed the route to left as there were people in front and I stupidly followed baaaa! I ended up downclimbing not advised.
You know your on the right route as you come to some metal hoop steps and a metal bannister in a via ferrata style, over a couple of 'walkers' awkward bits. The path eventualy comes to a scree route down to the glacier.
Not sure how you are with glaciers but the route is not clear till you start along it, cairns on ground moraine are invisible when looked down on! Start walking along the ridge of the moraine on the right (as you look at it from the snout end), the cairns will pop up frequent and clear. These are followed till you get close to the seracs which are clearly distinguishable and the ground has started to break up. The first proper crevasses will now be on your left. This pic is taken from the other side looking back at the seracs http://www.ukhillwalking.com/images/dbpage.php?id=12050 The route across is just out of shot bottom left. Now the last time I was there, late last year, there was a huge boulder on one of the middle bridges, but it could all be different but there should be a cairned route across as its used by french guides a lot. If not its a good route finding exercise as its not far and your crossing perpendicular to the flow and thus not really usung bridges. The spot your heading for is below a sign that is halfway up the opposite side of the glacial valley. You should see a chain hand rail lead up left (in glacial flow direction) for the tricky section. A scrabble up a scree slope gets you to the sign where the chain rail starts, I have seen guides run up and down this section but dont be brave, you will be tired by now and a slip here is fatal! But that said its not all that tricky just be careful, many people not paying attention have fallen here, many use a sling to the chain and via ferrata it. Its up to you and judge your skills and fatigue yourself.
Once clear of the chain you gain a ridge walk up to the south side of aiguille de la berangere which then leads on to the conscits hut. This is the first bivvy or hut stay. If your doing this route when the huts are open and are happy to pay, the huts will save carrying gear etc etc etc. But if bivvying then I would recommend carrying on past the hut and follow the glacier round to where the old conscrits hut used to be as the bivvy spots are better. Go and get a cuppa or something from the hut, it makes for a great spot to watch the sun go down, the warden is a really nice and try your french as she appreciates the effort even though she speaks excellent english.
Day2:
You wont be able to see the summit of the aiguille de la berangere but head up the centre of the incline so your in line with the conscrits hut and where the summit should be, you will decern a slight ridge running up to the glacier de la berangere. (again depending on the time of year this may or may not be obvious). Once on the glacier the summit will be clear and the route is to follow the ridge right up the SW side, following on from the ridge you have just walked. This is all pretty obvious when there and am probable giving too many details. The route from here on in to the aiguille de bionassay is one long ridge, dipping down from the berangere summit then up and down several times over the dome du miage until the last scramble to the col du miage and the Durier Hut. http://refuges.guides-mont-blanc.com more info here. There arent too many people who visit this part of the mountain so it is possible to get a space at the hut except high season, but a call from the conscrits will confirm. You dont necessarily need to bivvy here, if you have made good time across the domes and set off early enough (2-3) you can carry on an maybe head down to the gouter hut and bivvy there( very long route though), although this means taking on the dome du gouter to head back up MB. After the exhausting first day its good to have an easier day and bivvy at the col du miage.
.............
Sorry this messgae is too large, I will put part b and the notes version in another post! doh!
The route over bionassay is probably the trickest of the whole route and conditions can lead to a diversion across the SE face for a short section. On the ridge up to the summit there is a step and this is where you choose your route, either up on the ridge or traverse the face. I've only done the ridge route. The ridge is very exposed and careful steps are needed, its not technically difficult but the drops either side are a little daunting. Take care of cornices that build on the NW side. The route ahead is clear to the dome du gouter but dont rush! Time will now need to be assessed, and what route you plan. The bosses ridge is not difficult and the main issue will be people. If you are planning a route over the summit and down across the three monts (blanc, maudit, tacul) then you need to be making good time. Wiser may be to lose altitude for and early camp near the gouter hut and then start of at 12-1 and get on the summit for a sunrise (epic). Then carry on down to the col de la brenva and over maudit, classic pointy peak stuff, and then down to col maudit to bag tacul before the descent to the col du midi. This route is so well trodden as its seen as the new normal route now that the gouter route is a shooting gallery.
Once at the the col du midi, the obvious feeling in the legs says 'take the funkynicular Please!' but I suggest, if time and motivation is still with you, bivvy amongst the hords and get a good nights sleep (sort of), then explore, even if its just to walk down the mer de glace, or head over to the jorasses, just for a look, or whatever you feel up to. It just pays to walk from valley to valley with a number of pointy bits in between and makes as good an expedition as you can get in such a busy area. I have ducked out and taken the midi station back door before and although I was shattered I regretted it once back among the throngs of chamkids.
To escape back to the peace of Val montjoie take the train to Le fayat and then the bus up to the campsite.
I really like the Val montjoie for many reasons, its quieter, mainly french (little english spoken) cheaper and food is great and the water is free and everywhere! The streets a dotted with evian/volvic taps that dish up mineral water 24hrs a day! When you get to Cham the cost of a small bottle volvic will have you on the train in minutes!
Plus there a lots of parts of the MBM to explore that are devoid of humans.
Now I hope this is of some use and tempts you into the montjoie.
First Left fork 70m in, carry on up switch backs for hours!
Once above the tree line follow path towards tre la tete hut visible on first skyline.
Water stop at tre la tete.
Head towards the glaciers tre la tete, up the valley NNW. Look for boulder with a stick after level section of route. The route goes down to galcier snout. Look for via ferrata style metal work (steps & handrail).
make the glacier and head up the moraie ridge, follow cairns till near the seracs. Pick/follow route across the glacier at the first set of crevasses, perpendicular to flow.
Spot sign up on the wall 'danger!' with chain continuing up left across the wall. Careful.
Gain the ridge to the conscrits - first possible bivvy/hut stop. If using Huts phone the durier to confirm.
Central ridge (not all that clear) or central route to berangere. Start of long ridge walk across dome du miage, just keep on the sharp bit
Durier Hut on the col du miage - possible 2nd bivvy Hut Stay.
Ridge route - possible diversion on to face at the step - over bionassay. very exposed, tread carefully.
Turn right at Dome du gouter for MB or left for another stay at the gouter hut. Follow the sharp bit over MB then well trodden route over the three monts till at the cosmique hut.
Possible third/fourth bivvy/hut stop.
The rest of the alps are in front of you....!
Andy Turner08 Apr 2004
In reply to Jools: Gee, how long did that take you (to write the post I mean lol) Cheers mate, lots of interesting info there..........
AW08 Apr 2004
Andy,
There is a good campsite just north of Les Houches. As you travel south from Chamonix Sud, it is on the left before the Les Houches turn off. I think it is called Le Petit Pont. You will see it on the Cham map. It is not overcrowded (with Brits) and has good facilities at a reasonable price.
Tips for camping - make use of the left luggage facility at the Chamonix railway station so that you don't have to carry unnecessary kit onto the mountains.
Alternatively, do have a shop around for an apartment. You'll be surprised how cheap they are over the internet.
Thanks Jools, that's brilliant.
Andy and myself will have a goog read of this, with the map. sound like a great alternative.
Thanks again for your time and effort.
no worries, yes andy it took a while, but I like this route as its not the norm, it makes a expedition over what is seen as simple tick, and it starts of in a quieter area of the region. Theres lots of areas untouched, especially in the west, that arent goat tracks full of would-bes!
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