Golden Oldy - Aonach Mor, Avalanche risk, route tips

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 James0101 13 Feb 2024

Hi,
We're hoping to do Golden Oldy tomorrow from the gondola.

It looks like there is considerable avalanche risk on NE facing slopes and SAIS posted photos of an avalanche on the East side of Aonach Mor yesterday. https://lochaberblog.sais.gov.uk/2024/02/aonach-mor-avalanche-day-number-th...

As Aonach Mor is on the West face it should avoid avalanche risk? Any thoughts?

I'd also be interested to hear any tips on climbing the route, we did forcan ridge in early January and it sounds quite similar.

Post edited at 12:11

 LakesWinter 13 Feb 2024
In reply to James0101:

I would agree that west faces look safer on that avalanche rose.  Once you are on the route it is a ridge all the way up iirc. Obviously you'll need to make your own assessments but I'd go for it off that forecast s long as the weather was OK enough etc.

It's a great route enjoy

 Nathan Adam 13 Feb 2024
In reply to James0101:

It’s generally considered a safe choice due to the aspect, but you do walk up the Allt Daim which means you’re exposed to NE slopes on the approach. It’s possible to take a high line underneath the west face after the descent from the ski area rather than dropping all the way into the glen, although the going is probably rougher. You’re unlikely to be the only people going that way tomorrow but not ideal to follow other folk. 

Not entirely easy to find if there’s any low cloud, but there’s several options at a similar standard within a short distance, we climbed Gendarme Ridge by accident the first time I went there. The crux on GO is low down and then very pleasant easy climbing/scrambling to the top. It’s not really comparable to the Forcan, which has a lot of walking on it with some scrambly sections between. Golden Oldy feels more like a climbing route with a need to know when to pitch and when to move together with gear between each climber. If you pitch the whole thing you’ll definitely miss the last gondola. 

Worth having your map and compass handy for the top as the summit of Aonach Mor can be a scary and disorienting place in cloud, with a fairly small window for error. It makes you want to veer N to the ski slopes quickly but that takes you very close to the top of Easy Gully and potentially large cornices. Following the lines in the Walk Highlands map is fine in summer but for winter I’d want to be about 100m SW of it (particularly between point 7 and 2) and take the same dog leg. 

OP James0101 13 Feb 2024
In reply to Nathan Adam:

excellent cheers, some very good tips in there.

thanks also to LakesWinter.


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