UKH

Hi guys,

I'm looking to do some mixed climbing in Chamonix in spring this year. I've only been there in summer and back then it was common to buy a fairly cheap multi day lift pass to do a lot of the classic climbs. However I noticed during the skiing season it's only possible to buy (expensive) skiing passes. What is the modus operandi of most winter climbers? Do most people just bite the bullet and pay for a ski pass?

Also how do people even climb routes as day trips from chamonix at all during winter? Let's say I want to climb something in the triangle du tacul, it would be pretty tight to take the first lift (is there an early one for climbers?) and then walk back up to the station in time for the last lift? I presume most huts, especially the cosmique would be booked out weeks in advance? 

Appreciate any help, I would be really stoked if it worked out!

You can still buy individual lift tickets, such as a return on the Aiguille du Midi cable car. I believe it's generally the same price, if not slightly cheaper (looks like Midi is €55 instead of €75).

Most huts will be closed, including the Cosmiques. Some huts will offer a winter alternative, which is usually an unstaffed bare-bones bivi hut. From memory the Cosmiques has ten beds in the lower floor that are available in winter. 

You'll most likely need skis to get around. We did some bashing around the Argentiere glacier once in January and ended up renting some snowshoes. I bought a multi-day ski pass as there were some off days where it was nice to go skiing as an alternative to watching ice melt. 

if you finish a climb in winter you usually just cruise down the vallée blanche after.  Bit more complicated this year as there is no lift back up to Montenvers at the moment (its always 2 weeks away from opening) and its a good hours walk up from the glacier to the station.  last train down 4.30.  The glacier below the stairs is completely unskiable at the moment.  There are things you can do off the Skyway so that's an option.  Its been very quiet this winter.

Yeah that's what I was thinking! But even when the lift opens, if you gotta be back by 4.30, That does not leave much time for climbing, considering the first lift up to aiguille du midi doesn't leave until 7 (or something like that...). Or have I missed something?

The first Midi lift is at 8.10 at the moment, so to climb a route up high and then make the 4.30 last train down is tight.

Staying up high, either by camping or sleeping in a winter room, means that you have all the time you need to climb. For example, there are winter rooms open at the Abri Smond hut near the Cosmiques refuge, at the Torino refuge, and at the Plan refuge. There were teams camped under the East Face of the Tacul today.

Traditionally you would've missed the last lift down and then continued to ski/walk into town, but the snow cover is good up high but poor below about 2000m this season, meaning that this is going to mean a lot more walking...

As above, one day hits are only feasible and enjoyable if you can ski in and back down to the valley. Otherwise it’s a long walk. At least by March you have more daylight so hopefully won’t need to ski down in the dark (that’s ok but slower and creepier). Skiing off the top of the GM made one day hits feasible for the shorter Argie routes but that won’t be possible till they rebuild it in a few years’ time.

Much more options if you stay overnight in the Cosmiques or Argie or some other winter room. The huts start to open in late March. There’s good climbing from the Plan and that’s a cheap return trip but again you need skis.

I’ve used the pay as you go card in the past. Sometimes it made more sense to get two singles if going up and down on different days, or only going up. Unless you hit a perfect weather window, a pass probably won’t be worth it, unless you’re skiing on the non-climbing days.

If you aren’t happy skiing off piste with all the kit, you will be very limited and you certainly won’t be doing day hits. 

Do you have to book places in the winter rooms of huts? And when does the Cosmiques hut open. Thinking of a trip in early April