Gausta Marathon, Rjukan

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 David Coley 20 Dec 2023

Hi, anyone done this and have any tips on doing it in an day back to town, for example the walk out (snow shoes?), or the difficulties or anything really. Thanks.

Post edited at 07:18
 Robbo1 20 Dec 2023
In reply to David Coley:

We were going to do it last year but after climbing Fabrikkfossen  (similar aspect and elevation) we decided not to. Fabrikkfossen was holding a lot of snow and the ice was rotten underneath it, making for a very slow climb. I think you would want very little snow cover or be in for a pretty miserable day (UKC logbook entries suggest that snow cover on the climb plays a big part). You would also want someone to come and pick you up from the road (or drop you at the start having parked at the exit). I've seen some people suggest snowshoes. I wonder if something like the The Auftriib Cramplifier might work and be lighter than snowshoes.

 HeMa 21 Dec 2023
In reply to David Coley:

I did many years ago. As Robbo writes, snow makes ascents of if slow. Basically the whole fall, is spaced out steps and steeper portions with long walking terrain (often snow) in between.

Completely doable in a day, but it means that simul-solo or just solo on the easier terrain speeds things up considerable. I recall we only pitched for like two pitches and the rest was done as either solo or simul-solo (but no gear between us). After reaching the plateau, a snowslog gets you to the ski-resorts access road... originally people were supposed to come pick us up, but due to other things there were not there... so we ended up walking all the way to Ozzymosis (I think) parking lot). It was a long day, but nothing uber long.

Were I to do it again now, I'd indeed try to do it when there isn't a lot of snow... and perhaps might only carry a ~40m thin single rope for the steeper steps. Pretty much the rest would be just simple solo. This would speed things up a lot, and also make the rucksacks lighter (I recall we had 60m half ropes...)

 HeMa 21 Dec 2023
In reply to HeMa:

oh, and especially if a lot of soft snow... snowshoes can be really useful. 

But if the snow is hard (stable enough wind crust to support climbers), they will be un-needed.

The snowshoes would predominantly used for the last ~100m of vert in a gully/bowl and the top plateau to the road. I would not really use them on the actual climb... simply because if there is so much snow on the flatter parts of the climb that you really want snow shoes... well, avalanche is a valid concern, not to mention that also the climbing will be likely really crap (after all, it's rather shallow angle).

OP David Coley 21 Dec 2023

Thanks everyone 


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