UKH

Hi.

I am thinking of buying a Mammut Smart 2.0 with the correct carabiner. 

I have done experience with the device.

What rope diameter do you recommend for usage with the smart 2.0?

I have been told that if the diameter is too small it won't bite and if the diameter is too large the rope will jam the device.

Bye 

Sav

Important equipment safety advice and not a single reply. 😯

https://www.mammut.com/uk/en/products/2040-02210/smart-2-0

8.5 to 10.7mm as per Mammut's specs. 

Hi.

I know the specs but would the device not bite something like a 9.2 and would a fat 10.1mm - like my practice rope - jam the device?

Do you have one and what diameter are you using with it?

Sav

I didn't reply because I don't like the Smart, especially for half ropes.

I don't have one personally as I prefer other devices, but my partner does and I've used it a few times with 9.8mm ropes and it works fine. 

I have two 50m half ropes but I gave never used them. 

I have used it a few times but I use my BD ATC for lead belaying and toprope belaying on easy routes and use my GriGri for hard route toprope belaying. I am happy that it worked on a rope with a diameter greater than 9.5mm.

S

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/belay-device/mammut-smart-2...

Have a read of this Sav. Seems like skinnier ropes work better if you're looking for smoothness

Having followed your activity over a while.

Correct me if I'm wrong, your aspirations are high , but actual achievements are less so.

I really believe you're overthinking this.

Get something like a DMM Mantis, Petzl Reverso, BD ATC etc, use it for everything, you'll be fine.

At the grades you're realistically going to lead or second over the next couple of seasons;

wall, sport or trad you're sorted.

FWIW, I've used/ got an original, it's OK, but I prefer a more conventional device.

Yours pragmatically, and hopefully helpfully,

Adrian.

(If you're ever in Sheffield, I'm more than happy to accompany you on Mods, Diffs, V Diffs etc)

Hi Cameron.

Thanks. I have read this and it does say paying out slack with a 9.0mm rope was easier.

S

Hi Ade.

You are correct but I don't think about hard aspirations much now.

I was advised to get one as it is ambidextrous and I found paying out slack with my GriGri a bit of a challenge as it is right handed.

I actually have a BD ATC and used to for most things indoors.

I indoor lead at 4th and 5th grade bands but I have toprope belayed people up to F6b.

It is a bit hard to get used to.

I usually visit Sheffield once a month for bouldering at Depot and/or leading at either AWCC or The Foundry.

Regards

Sav

It will have to be routes with small footholds and/or smearing as I wear La Sportiva Solution comps.

Anyone use a BD Pilot?

Any opinions on this?

S

Yes, I got rid of one because the the rope slipped through even when it was "locked"!

I'm left handed and bought a Camp Matik after trying the Grigri 2.

Pays out smoothly lead belaying with a 9.5mm, better than the grigri2 and doesn't lock up as easily. Holds falls well with no slippage. Fast payout is ambidextrous when using the trigger so good for lefties. Only downside are that it's heavy and has an annoying anti panic function when lowering that's way too sensitive. Ok indoors when you get used to the biting point, but can be a pain on high friction outdoor routes where it locks up more frequently.

Overall as a leftie, I've found it's better than the grigri 2 and other devices like the Smart and ATC Pilot.

As far as I can remember in an EPIC TV video on it, Matt Groom said that was one if the problems with the device.

I haven't looked into the Camp Matik yet but I will look into it.

To me, it sounds like a good option.

I haven't used the Smart for leading yet but I have had some experience with dot toproping.

For me the Wild Country Revo is the benchmark for indoor climbing safety. You can't load it wrong. It works exactly the same as a tube device, so you can hand it to someone who's never even seen one before and they can use it safely.

The safety feature doesn't get in the way at all during normal use, it's just there as a backup in the event of a mistake.

More importantly, it's impossible to override the safety mechanism, it's not physically possible to drop someone with it, unlike the multiple ways to screw up using a GriGri. 

Are you refering to this?

https://bananafingers.co.uk/wild-country-revo-belay-device?gad_source=1&...

Pricey!

It is an inertia based belay device. 

S

Bryn Williams

What rope diameter do you recommend for use with the Mammut Smart 2.0?

Savvas