UKH

I haven't been winter climbing since my first kid was born ca. 8 years ago. I've now convinced the family to let me have some days climbing in Rjukan in February. I need a new outer layer for the trip. 8-10yrs ago everyone was raving about Arcteryx Gamma MX for ice climbing, so I assumed that would still be the go-to. But looking around, that kind of thick/heavy lined softshell doesn't seem to be popular anymore, and instead it looks like people are ice climbing in hardshells. Am I misreading the current consensus? Is this because hardshells are now so much more breathable? Or is the thick/heavy lined softshell dead and people are using lighter softshells sized larger and putting more layers underneath? Also, is Rjukan colder/wetter than Cogne? I've done three trips to Cogne and a light softshell handled any water/weather absolutely fine, but maybe Rjukan requires a tougher jacket. Thanks in advance.

I once experienced what must have been -40 in Rjukan. The temp gauge in town showed -35 and as we descended into the gorge you could feel the temp dropping even more.  I only ever used a hard shell in Scotland so for me softshell still reigns supreme in Alpine conditions. 

I can't comment on the specifics of Rjukan compared to Cogne, but I did go to Opdal, Norway last February for a weeks ice climbing. 

I used a mix of a heavier lined softshell and a hardshell depending on the weather. Cold dry windy = softshell, warmer snowy windy = hardshell. Not much help in terms of choosing for you but I think both have their place depending on the conditions on the day. I run hot and found the softshell more breathable but was glad of the hardshell when the conditions were a bit more blizzard like. It may just be that UK winter has drummed into me you don't go anywhere without a hardshell though.... 

I prefer softshell (numerous variations on the theme) unless there's running water around

Softshell=easier to repair, more flexible and more breathable. Reigns supreme in dry cold conditions.

Hardshell=only if i really have to. 

The absolute best I have found for pure ice climbing is softshell trousers with a hybrid jacket with a lightweight synthetic midlayer (eg. Arcteryx Procline comp or Alpha comp. The hybrids are pretty hard to come by but crop up every now and again as new models or second hand. I don't bother with hardshell trousers anymore as they lack mobility and are too easily ripped/shredded in comparison to small nicks in softshell trousers, that are as mentioned much easier to fix.

The old model of the Gamma MX is still very relevant for pure ice and mixed but the new model is a bit bizarre and probably worth avoiding. 

I have a few friends that climb in a baselayer, fleece midlayer with a windshirts with a belay jacket and layer up and down but I find this set up great if your moving fast on big multipitch/alpine style ice lines but I find its not so versatile when the weather turns. Maybe not the best set up for cragging style climbing either (ala Rjukan etc) which can involve a lot of on/off climbing belaying.

 

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

Have things moved on from winter ron hills and a buffalo jacket?

Hardshell all the way for Norwegian water ice.  

Getting a bit sweatier in goretex is a minor inconvenience compared to being soaked through in a softshell, which ended my day more than once during a brief flirtation with wearing it.

I preferred a soft shell but then I wasn't climbing vertical ice. Never saw any run off in 3trips plus the town is so close nothing bad will happen if you fall in the river.

Wear what you want !!! Or what you've got !!!