UKC Winter Conditions Report - Northern Cairngorms 10.12.15

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ian stewart 10 Dec 2015
Well it was a wet and warm week after the good start to last week.

Yesterday had rain at Cairngorm summit most of the day. The freezing level dropped overnight and brought a good dusting of fresh snow right down to aviemore. -5 at the summit today will be freezing things up well, but as the ground is so wet it will take a while to really freeze up any turf.

So looking into the weekend, harder mixed, not relying on turf, or needing loose blocks to be stuck together it should be quite good from tomorrow. Easier grades, and certainly gullies will not be filled in yet.
Maybe a good time to go for a walk, sort out your winter systems and practice some navigation, we will all be needing it over the winter!!

Forecasts all seem to agree a thaw on monday, although confidence in the timing seems low.... Fingers crossed!

Cheers

Pics here:
https://twitter.com/stewartmountain
 barbeg 10 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Hi Ian,

Agree, looking at synoptics the next 3 days look ok for getting some climbing done...

ANdy
ian stewart 12 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Photos from today - note how little snow is in the gullies!!

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1052675704764206.1073741877.23221...
 pass and peak 13 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Well that looks pants! Sigh, moan and the forecast doesn't bode well either! Ohh well go for a walk I suppose!
 Merlin 13 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Wow, it's much barer than I expected. Thanks.
 CurlyStevo 13 Dec 2015
In reply to Merlin:
I think everything melted back to square one pretty much in the last major thaw. Some of the higher gullies on the Ben might have retained some of the new snow..

Currently its not looking good at all for next week, still this type of weather and conditions are typical at this time of year imo.
Post edited at 14:47
 gavmac 13 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Many of the classic mixed routes being climbed yesterday in Coire an Lochain, including - Fallout Corner, Savage Slit, Bulgy, Deep Throat, Hookers Corner, The Migrant and many more. A super steep line being climbed on No. 3 Buttress, not sure the route- very impressive to watch.
In reply to gavmac:

I might be wrong, maybe Andy or Neil can confirm, but i think the route might have been "Pfugga-lule" or something. Looked amazing and an impressive effort from both.
 Neil Adams 14 Dec 2015
In reply to Martin McKenna - Rockfax:

Yes, it was that one, however you pronounce it! Great route but not done in great style - I backed off P1 then Andy took a fall off it. My shoulders hurt this morning...
ian stewart 14 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Lots of fresh snow overnight, but very loose and powdery.
Photos from today here:
https://www.facebook.com/stewartmountainskills/posts/1053709751327468

Might be ok tomorrow, but then major thaw again wednesday.... boo hiss!
ian stewart 15 Dec 2015
In reply to ian stewart:

Todays photos here:
https://www.facebook.com/stewartmountainskills/posts/1054115924620184

Walking in it looked quite unlikely today, definitely melting fast, but the freezing level stayed right at the bottom of the crag and conditions on route were really good, if a bit snowy.

Big thaw coming tomorrow, sorry..... Looks like it will be warm now right into next week. No climbing this weekend!

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