In reply to Moley:
Excellent. Was there two years ago, travelling around the north (as far south as a line between Tafroute and Merzouga) and our experiences completely mirrored yours, particularly local attitudes to would-be fundamentalists.
There's a lot of guff spouted about the country - I remember having to take young Bruce Hooker to task because he told someone they were at risk of decapitation if they visited. <Bless>
Wonderful place, fabulous climbing. Government not that great with personal freedoms, but no reason not to support the Moroccans.