UKH

Hello, I'm after some new climbing shoes because of foot problems I've got.

I've been recommended that I get some climbing shoes that are very stiff so that my feet get the support they need. Even if it's not ideal for my sort of climbing. As wide as possible as well.

The only shoes with stiff sole I've seen are narrow pointy aggressive sort of shoes.

Does anyone know of a good shoe that's not like this? Advice would be much appreciated! Thanks

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

I have it seems very wide feet and don't mind shoes with some support to them either. Have a look at "beginners" shoes - they are often lasted wide for comfort (but actually that means they fit wide footed people snugly) and normally have some midsole. I was going to recommend these http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2334 but it appears Sportiva don't have them in their line up now. Alternatively I've long found Scarpa fit my wide feet better than most, so it would be worth checking out their lower cost ones. For a long time I used a pair of Red Chilie Sausolitos but they've changed the look of that model since - not sure if the new ones have a similar fit.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

I had feet problems (caused by running) a few years ago and switched to Boreal Silex (velcro or lace) and went up half a size to allow feet to spread. They are reckoned to be wide and stiffish...I agree. I also stuffed a krab in the shoes across the forefoot, for a couple of weeks before wearing, to aid bedding in: all very successful for me. Recently tried Scarpa Vapour V and forefoot box shape doesn't try to bend toes in like some do: very pleased with them and a bit more precise that the Silexs.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

Try Sportiva Tarantula, Boreal Jokers, +1 for Silex,
Scarpa are wider but dont do very large sizes, I wish they did the Vapour V in 46.5 !

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

I second (third?) Vapor V's for a good wide fit.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

I'm having the same issue. I had joker plus then moved onto scarpa force, I like the joker it was wider and thicker soled. walking off crags kills my feet.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

Have duck feet, wear Vapour Vs.

In reply to Lemony:
Sportiva TC Pro - brilliant shoe but hard to find here , the European websites have them, size roughly the same as muira. I wear tarantula as a cheap wall shoe but they don't come anywhere close to TC Pro which are wider, super stiff and great edges.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

Hi,

I have some issues with my big toes, but thanks to the TC Pro's, I can climb now without problems.

I use 0.5 size smaller climbing shoes than my steer shoes. A same pair of TC pro's inside and outside, from bouldering to the mp, slabs, cracks, verts and overhangs.

Now I need to resole these trusted warhorses.


The Butora Mantra shoes are also a stiff and well padded. Looking forward to get a pair.
http://butorausa.com/mantra-green-wide/
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new-board-lasted-climbing-shoes-attn-slab-...

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

Five ten Galileo. Definitely.

In reply to ylem:

Hahaha... great.... recommend a shoe they dropped about 3 years ago!

In reply to the OP:

It would be worth knowing what sort of shoe you're after. Is it a comfy trad shoe, or a more technical sport shoe?

For Trad I'd recommend looking at the Scarpa Techno X. Very stiff, definitely on the wide side, surprisingly technical for such a flat comfy shoe. There's a lot of rubber on them so they won't bed in much, but if they fit our of the box, brill! Alternatively some of the other suggestion like Boreal Joker and Silex.

For Sport the Vapour V are definitely worth a look, but also the Boreal Lynx. Stiff and downturned.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

The Scarpa Force xs would be worth a try, pretty flat and stiff.

In reply to ylem:

I second the 5.10 Galileos if you can still find a pie in your size. I used to have a pair and they're very wide at the front and very stiff.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

For stiff shoes, the five ten White's are super stiff if you can get hold of them, though not that wide.
Scarpa Techno X are good, I'm selling mine as I'd hoped they'd soften a bit, but they didn't.
Sportiva katana lace are also great, though a little on the pointy side.

Always worth going to a decent outdoor shop where the staff knew what they're talking about. Sadly they're getting fewer and farther between

In reply to RobbieNClimb:
As usual there's some pretty bizarre suggestions here (i.e. suggest whatever you currently happen to be using!).

The Scarpa Feroce is the shoe that instanly springs to mind for something reasonably technical - you'll have to order it from one of the European retailers though as I don't think it's imported into the UK. The Techno X is another reasonable shout, being stiff and precise, although not exceptionally wide. The Boreal Silex could be worth a look if you're after something even more basic.

Cheers,

George.

In reply to RobbieNClimb:

Must agree with all the very odd suggestions. Scarpas are usually useless for wide footed people in my experience, try some Red Chillis. Fit my wide feet with immense comfort, I have the Spirit VCRs.

In reply to GPN:



Yep, bizarre!

In reply to jon:
Ha! I thought somebody might pull me on that
(It is true that there aren't many stiff, wide, and presumably technical, shoes around though).

Thanks for your replies everyone.

What I've been using is sportiva tarrantula's and scarpa reflex. The reflex I got on well with before my foot problems..I had it in a smaller size, they were tight and good for foot holds. The tarantula's just aren't stiff or technical enough for me. Now I'm climbing harder stuff I just don't find they hold on small foot holds, they sort of collapse on me.

I'm sport climbing but I still want something that I can go for small foot holds and balance well with

The problem I've got with my feet is very thickened skin. It's think now it digs in to my nails and causes a lot pain when I put pressure on my toes. I spent a week climbing in Spain and every climb I was putting cream on it and taking pain killer. Very annoying! So i'm going to be sticking to wider shoes at least until they're better

I'll have a look at all the suggestions.. The scarpa feroce and vapour v's looks like one which is worth a try

Thanks loads Rob