UKH

Hi All,

Heading out to the Slovak side of the Tatras at the weekend. Having researched the area I know we need to be BMC members to do some of the peaks unguided, which we are.

The more I read though the more I'm getting confused with the regulations in place. We will for the most part be sticking to the trails but we do want to summit Gerlachovsky Stit. Can anyone who has been or has knowledge confirm that we would be able to do so unguided via the standard routes up Velicka Proba and down the Bativoska Proba?

I am not concerned about our competence to complete the route just the regulations allowing us to do so unguided.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Stuart

In reply to chappers:

Bit off topic , but I know where you are coming from, I was planning a caving trip there a couple of years ago, nightmare,

In reply to chappers:

Hi, not sure this will help but I've just spoken to my cousin who has done quite a bit in the Tatras with her other half. Basically you would be going up a route that the guides normally use with the clients, so if you were to meet any on your way they will probably give you some grief

As members of a climbing association you could go unguided as long as the route is graded above III. And I got impression this one isn't hence it would be 'illegal'. Saying that she did mention that the route is not technically hard but hard to find the way/orientation is tricky. They used a different way but still in 'illegal' way - apparently everyone does it Its called Gypsy's Ferrata or something like that. Basically if you pick a nice sunny day and go up Velicka Proba its gonna be busy. 90% times guides use Velicka with the clients, so if you go up Gipsy's Ferrata there is less chance of getting any bullocking for breaking the rules

She went up it in winter and loved it

Nika

In reply to chappers:
Go to the Polish side, they like Mountaineers more than the Slovakians do

In reply to chappers:

This route is indeed for guided party's only.
You will legally have to climb a route of uiaa lll or above to be legal..but saying that...you wont have any problems on any other route than the standard guided route.
its normally swarming with guided party's in good weather..I suggest going into Batizovska dolna,...climbing a route onto the main ridge then the summit...and descend Batizovsky zlab ( like you mentioned)..

In reply to chappers:

There is lightning over the Tatras,
Thunders loudly sound

The first two lines of the Slovak national anthem do not lie! The Tatry are renowned for their lightning storms, so just be aware of that if your on the ridge. Christian will no doubt a agree with me, having been basically spooned by myself under a boulder all night during a huge thunder storm!

Despite that disturbing experience, the Tatry are still one of my top places to visit! Enjoy your trip...

In reply to chappers: thanks all, that's been most helpful. Looking into alternative routes up now. I had heard about the weather, looks good for the first half of next week, will be up early to try and avoid any late afternoon storms and of course will not attempt if it looks like the weather is not on our side.

Stuart

In reply to chappers:

We took a guide up Gerlach a couple of years ago, very much against our wishes. But it actually turned into a good experience for us. the guide was great and when he realised we were experienced climbers (many folk are not) he sort of just showed us the way and we felt we had climbed it as equals. I want to climb Gerlach again by Martin's route, which is a longer version of gypsy's ferrata. it's grade III, so we can do it ourselves. Hope you enjoy the tatras, they are fab. the weather often changed late morning, early afternoon so try to get early starts if you can

In reply to redsonja: thanks for the advice, I have looked at Martins route and we have planned to do this instead. I'll let you know how it goes weather depending. Looking good so far.