UKH

When did DMM stop producing the old style wallnuts.

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 Matt Amos 21 May 2015
Just ordered some wallnuts and got sent the old style ones. I'm sending them back anyway, but I was wondering how old they would be as thought they'd be nearly out of there recommended lifetime as suggested by DMM. Basically, anyone know when DMM stopped making the old style wallnuts (non anodised, heavier and the ones with the sort of cut out on larger sizes)?
 Timmd 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

The cut out which goes 'upwards' from underneath?

They're ment to be good for ice climbing as the axe pick doesn't get trapped inside the nut when it's being tapped into a crack.
OP Matt Amos 21 May 2015
In reply to Timmd:

I'm trying to find a picture but I can't, I can only find then new ones. Hey have a cut out from the rear where you can see the wires and a smaller cut out on the front.
OP Matt Amos 21 May 2015
In reply to Timmd:

As in this picture http://i.imgur.com/vkKkjh1.jpg
 BarrySW19 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

The serial number should tell you the date of manufacture.
 Si dH 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

Not sure exactly but it was soon after I started climbing, so guess 10 years ago, that the new ones came out
 gethin_allen 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

Do dmm really specify a lifetime for metal gear? I thought metal gear was fine for ever depending on condition.

I still use my set and have no intention of stopping until they are damaged.

 jimtitt 21 May 2015
In reply to gethin_allen:

"Maximum Lifespan: Textile & Plastic Products – 10 years from date of manufacture. Metal Products – no time limit."
Carry on as you are
 gethin_allen 21 May 2015
In reply to jimtitt:
Thanks Jim,
That's exactly what I thought.
 Timmd 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:
> As in this picture http://i.imgur.com/vkKkjh1.jpg

They're the ones ice climbers used to go on about, presumably no sideways hole ment you could tap them in from above or from the side, with Wallnuts having a flared shape like they do.

Somebody who used to work for Rock & Run was a bit perturbed at the change to the design to do with the holes in them...
Post edited at 21:25
 Timmd 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:
It's occurred to me one could make side plates out of alu, and using two bits of tubing going either side of the wire to stop them being pushed inwards, use a couple of nuts and bolts to pull the parts together, and have the two plates recessed so the profile of the nut is the same.

To make newer Wallnuts more ice climbing friendly...
Post edited at 21:32
 gethin_allen 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

Just noticed that the wc rocks in that photo are labelled up as black diamond.
 Mowglee 21 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

Where did you buy them from? I'd guess they're at least 12 years old - I've been climbing for about that long, and they were doing the modern shape (i.e. holes from the side rather than in the back) but without the anodising at that time.
 Martin W 22 May 2015
In reply to Mowglee:

> Where did you buy them from?

I second that question, but only because I'd quite like to get a set of the old style ones.
OP Matt Amos 22 May 2015
In reply to Mowglee:

Outdoor action. I got them online, they've the description online of the new ones but I'm sure if you ring them up you can sort it out. They were pretty cheap aswell
 nutstory 22 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:
DMM Wallnuts 7 8 9 10, hot forged: 1995
DMM Wallnuts 7 8 9 10 11, CNC machined: 2003
DMM Wallnuts 1 to 11, CNC machined and colour anodised: 2005
Post edited at 09:01
 jkarran 22 May 2015
In reply to Matt Amos:

Well you could ask them but so far as I know they're still making them. The serial no. will tell you when they were made.

jk
 jkarran 22 May 2015
In reply to Timmd:

> It's occurred to me one could make side plates out of alu, and using two bits of tubing going either side of the wire...
> To make newer Wallnuts more ice climbing friendly...

Or just fill them with epoxy.
jk
 Timmd 22 May 2015
In reply to jkarran:

I'd thought of that, then wondered about inspecting the wire inside the nut.

 Nick_Scots 24 May 2015
In reply to jimtitt:

The issue with any wired nut, is the swaging or joining of the wire, similar to friends, where the wire joins the bolt head. I retired my ten plus yrs old friends last year. I have dropped from 8 friends to 3 new ones, so getting back to being quick getting the right nut or hex size!
 Timmd 24 May 2015
In reply to Scott_vzr:
Where have you read/heard that the swaging or joining has a limited safe usable life span in climbing gear?

Post edited at 14:34
 kilner 25 May 2015
In reply to jimtitt:
> "Maximum Lifespan: Textile & Plastic Products – 10 years from date of manufacture. Metal Products – no time limit."

> Carry on as you are

Where does it state 10 years for textiles and plastics?
Post edited at 12:00
 jimtitt 25 May 2015
In reply to kilner:
> Where does it state 10 years for textiles and plastics?

Directly before "Metal products-no time limit."
It was a cut and paste from http://dmmclimbing.com/instructions/PassiveProtection.pdf
 Nick_Scots 25 May 2015
In reply to Timmd:

It's difficult to see inside where swaging joins steel. You can see inside wire and solid nuts etc are easy to inspect, bug swaging ob a cam or nur is hard to decide on lifespan.

And BMC report
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/media/files/TCM%2012_09.pdf
A recall
http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=565379
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