UKH

Sorry to ask such an open-ended question, normally I do my own research and ask more specific questions - but have a trip coming up this weekend to Scotland and just realized I've forgotten to buy a belay jacket. So would like your advice to gather some recommendations as to a decent one. Advice about fit would be appreciated too (for example are the sizes of a belay jacket based on if you're wearing it over a T-shirt, or do they take into account you're wearing a bunch of other stuff - e.g. if I normally take M, do I take an M belay jacket, or an L?)

Thanks

In reply to SenzuBean:

There have been a couple of recent threads on belay jackets, particularly sensibly priced ones, worth searching for them.

In my experience sizing varies massively from manufacturer to manufacturer - if you need it in a week and it needs to be right, either try it on in a shop, or buy several sizes and use consumer contract regs to return the others (you get 14 days from receipt).

In reply to SenzuBean:

I have the big cheap orange Simond one from Decathlon, which is bulky, warm and good value. I had to size way up to get it to fit comfortably over other clothing: I have a 40 inch chest and longish arms, and ended up with an XL.

Worth a look if you have access to a Decathlon shop.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Thanks for the advice - I've looked back a few pages and seen some good leads and have mailed the persons. Hope that works out.
Otherwise might visit some shops tonight to see how things go - (partner has to get a few things anyway)

In reply to SenzuBean:

I just bought the arpenaz-50 from decathlon for £14.99 for the purpose of an "extra layer" when belaying.

Packs reasonably small, though haven't tried it out yet in the hills. Anyone tried it?

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan - sadly (?) no Decathlon nearby, but lots of high-end outdoor shops. Will have a check later on

In reply to SenzuBean:

The reference for a belay jacket for Scottish winter is the Mountain Equipment Fitzroy. Mid-level warmth, sized to fit over everything, synthetic so moisture is less of a concern. Most brands do an equivalent.

The bombproof belay jacket refrences are the Patagucci DAS parka and ME Citadel. Warmer, heavier, bulkier, again synthetic but will feel like the best purchase ever if the weather is foul.

After these you get the synthetic vest, down jacket etc options which are less standard but equally valid.

These decisions are best made by trying them all on and seeing which you like best. If you can’t, most manufacturers have a note on their website about the type of fit, i.e. standard, slim, oversized etc. It helps if you know how that brand sizes, ie – Patagonia is aimed at chubby yanks, Rab for the slim etc….

P.S. If it’s your first trip, will you actually be belaying much? If you’re climbing grade I/II routes they are often soloed (large snow gullies - protection is often sparse and the climbing quite easy) and I get pretty hot whilst climbing them (moving over snow/neve/ice is quite an all body workout and does get the core temperature up!)

In reply to SenzuBean:

I bought the Karrimor one which was discussed in the previous thread. I can confirm that it is primaloft and seems good. It's more of a general mountain/walking jacket than a belay jacket as it has a longish cut and hand-warmer pockets but that is ideal for my requirement as I already have a very short cut sprayway jacket that is better for throwing on over a harness. The only downside of the Karrimor is that the hood is not really helmet sized although I think it is supposed to be. The Decathlon one is a little cheaper when not on sale.

In reply to galpinos:

Thanks for the excellent reply!

It's the first trip where I would climb with ice tools (partner is much more experienced in the matter - I have climbed rock in winter, and walked up a few snowy peaks but that's it). We don't plan on pitching anything more than short sections (if that). I would mostly like a belay jacket just for the security of having something warm and light that I can put on if I start to get cold at the end of the day. I've been in some adverse winter conditions before and was very reluctant to do anything that wasn't directly involved in getting off the hill - including taking pack off and getting things out, can only imagine that I wouldn't be a fan of taking the jacket off, putting on a fleece, putting jacket back on etc.

In reply to SenzuBean:

My winter tip would be a Bothy Bag. It can make a pretty grim situation seem a lot better. I’ve had many a day when low spirits have been turned around by a few minutes sat on my sac in a bothy bag with a cup of hot Ribena in hand! You can get the map out, sort your kit, discuss what to do etc and then head out into the maelstrom with all your layers on and with a plan!

In reply to galpinos:


I always carry a 2 person terra nova bothy bag with me in winter (never used it though, it's the ultralight one that I don't think is durable enough to use often).

In reply to SenzuBean:

You’re sorted then! I have a Bothy 4 (not the superlight version, they are expensive !) which is ideal for three. It gets used nearly every ski tour I’ve done in Scotland and quite a few times climbing when topping out in deteriorating weather to sort gear, grab a sarny and check the descent. Worth the money and weight!

In reply to galpinos:

Sounds good - depending on how much winter I get out in next year I may invest in the bigger one (I heard that the 2 person one can only just handle 2 people sans packs).

In reply to SenzuBean:

Just as well made as my Berghaus equivalent and half the price.

http://www.sportsdirect.com/karrimor-avalanche-jacket-mens-443523?colcode=4...

In reply to SenzuBean:

Does anyone know how long primaloft lasts/does it lose loft over time. My Rab photon is feeling very thin. Is it possible to regenerate it in any way?

Has anyone used the black diamond stance hoodie? (not the parker)

In reply to SenzuBean:
If you can get to a go outdoors;

http://m.gooutdoors.co.uk/rab-generator-alpine-jacket-p216069

Used mine last week for the first time in Scotland and was toasty. Used it as a belay jacket so over everything even in the snow/rain/spindrift I was really warm.
At £90 a complete bargain.

In reply to spragglerocks:

They're all in Manchester :/ But I did find someone selling a new Rab Generator Alpine on UKC - bought from them and waiting for it to arrive