UKH

Hi, 3 that I'm looking at are the Rab Plasma hoodie, the ME Citadel, the Jack Wolfskin Cumulus. Does anyone have experience of these? Unfortunately, I've only seen these online, rather than in the flesh, so it would be good to hear from people with more physical experience.

In reply to ARussell:

What would you be using it for?

In reply to ARussell:

Over the years I've owned a few belay jackets and without doubt the ME Citadel is the warmest, most robust, complete belay jacket I've used. The Primaloft insulation fill is greater(or used to be) on this jacket than on any other synthetic. The DWR treatment on the fabric is still working fine even though my jacket is now 3 years old. Can't fault it in any way.

In reply to ARussell:

A belay jacket must have a front zip that you can open at the bottom and then press-stud together at the hem. This allows you to fasten it around the belay loop of your harness so that you can actually belay! [I am assuming you will be wearing it over the top of everything]

Not all so called belay jackets have this feature.

Hood needs to go over a helmet.

Chest pockets for gloves etc very useful.

Montane Flux fits the bill. So good I have two, in different sizes.

In reply to ARussell:

The Citadel is proper bombproof for when it's dire but it is heavy bulky, the ME Fitzroy is the lighter version, both are very good.

In reply to ARussell:

Thanks for the advice folks.

I'd be using it for an overlayer insulation/belay jacket.

Looks like a few people use the Citadel, but not the other 2 I mentioned, so that's probably significant. Looks like the ME ones have the best pockets of the 3 though none of them have the press-stud that the Montane ones do.

The Citadel does look quite heavy, though if I can get one for a good price, it could be worth it.

In reply to ARussell:

Don't get me wrong, the Citadel is heavy because it's got so much insulation and hence is very warm!

(The press's stud is something I never used not wished for so wouldn't be a deal breaker for me!)

In reply to ARussell:

ME Fitzroy or Rab Alpine Generator are justifiably popular choices for moderate cold

In reply to ARussell:

As others have said elsewhere, the Simond Warm jacket is a good 'un (£50 from Decathlon) or someone was selling a medium one here on UKC.

In reply to ARussell:

I have a ME Compressor and a Haglofs Barrier Zone Goody.

The Haglofs one is fantasticly warm, bulky, heavy, needs to be carried in a 10L pack (Decathlon £1.99). As a result, is carried by second, hence once you lead, need to wait for second to arrive at belay. During this time you had started to cool down, losing valuable body heat generated whilst climbing.

The much lighter Compressor, packs small, can be hung off harness with belay mitts, donned immediately you've stopped leading, insulating your core from heat loss!

What is the most thermally efficient one to use??

Stuart

In reply to ARussell:

I have both the ME Compressor hoody and the Fitzroy jacket. They layer really well together, so I use the Compressor for summer alpine climbing, the Fitzroy for the shoulder seasons, and a combination of both during the winter. This setup provides almost as much warmth as the Citadel jacket, but is way more versatile.

In reply to ARussell:

Get a cheap one, look for offers or use decathlon.

You will invariably end up climbing in your jacket and lightweight perspex doesn't hold up to chimneys, ice gear etc too well

Just like overtrousers and their magnetic attraction to crampon points, this will happen on your first trip out in your new coat

In reply to ARussell:
add the Simond /decathlon to the list.

For bang for your buck it's incredible.

Once my berghaus dies...

In reply to ARussell:
There are many out there

ME Citadel and Patagonia Das Parka are the daddies.

Middle of the road offerings would be ME Fitzroy, Rab Photon, Black Diamond Stance etc.

Rab Plasma/Montanes are at the light end of belay jackets, IMHO just synthetic layers, not true belay jackets. I had a Montane that simply didn't cut it in bad weather for warmth, whereas I have worn all of the above in bad weather with no issues.

Take your pick according to weight, warmth and wallet, but IMHO don't go for a thin belay jacket like Montane. If you're at that end of the market, you'd be better going for the Simond from Decathlon.

In reply to ARussell:

There are plenty of options on Sport Pursuit at the moment.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains:


Which Montane? Obviously something like the Prism/Flux is fairly lightweight, but would you not call something like the Spitfire One a true belay jackey?

In reply to andrewmcleod:

I haven't tried the Spitfire, you are right, I was talking about Prism/Flux etc.