UKH

The NMC had a little cleanup meet at Ravensheugh on Sunday, focussing on the easier starred stuff. Here's what was done:

Cleaned:

Pendulum *** (VS 4c)
Pendulum direct (HVS 5a)
Baluster Crack ** (HVS 5a & 5b) - both finishes
Trouser Legs *** (Northumbrian E1 5b)
SmartyPants ** (E2 5c) Meant to do half minute crack, but abbed down the wrong corner.
First Among Equals *** (E6 6b) was spruced up a bit while the rope was there, not that there was much to clean! You'll want to check this thing before setting off.
Ravensheugh Crack *** (HVS 5a)
Wild West Show ** (HVS 5a)
Scoop Crack (HS 4b)
Cat's Whiskers * (E1 5b) no gear but holds cleaned though lots of heather still at top which really needs some gardening
Easter Crack (VD). Note to users of the Rockfax guide - it's better to use the definitive guide description of this route when descending off the 1st Pinnacle. The Rockfax one is an E2.

Routes on Parallel Crack area are always pretty clean and Crescent Wall ** (MVS 4b) was used to get on the 2nd pinnacle and is clean.

Top Tip: To get off the 1st pinnacle just ab off the boulders and retrieve the ab rope from one of the promontories at the top of the crag.

This is an amazing and underused crag, please make the effort and get onto it and get it back into the mainstream of Northumbrian crags where it belongs.

In reply to JDal:
Nice one. I had such a dissappointing trip there once a few years back. Might put this back on mental map now.
Thanks a bunch.

In reply to French Erick: It's always worth carrying a bristle brush up there, clean air = more lichen, and with some lichen you just spread it by brushing (it clones itself). It's well worth a visit just now though.

In reply to JDal:

Nice one, it's a great crag in an amazing setting. A few of us went and did Reiver the other day so that's also clean and a good ground up prospect for the talented boulderers out there.

Elsewhere in the county a number of routes at Great Wanney have been cleaned and seen a number of ascents:

Osiris (E3)
Pharaoh’s Face (E3) top half only
The Last Retreat * (E4)
Nosey Parker * (E5)
Spare Rib (E4) Excellent highball, worth a star, harder than 6a
Great Wall Direct Finish * (E5)

A direct finish to The Last Retreat has been climbed at E5 6a, up the wall above the midway ledge, finishing just right of Nosey Parker. Plus a line has been climbed between Pharaoh’s Face and Main wall at (H)VS 5a/b, utilising a good thread. More info at: http://thenmc.org.uk/onlineguide/index.php?v=5&s=5&id=37

Along with many of the easier routes the following were also clean enough to be climbed:

Main Wall *** (HVS)
Rakes Crack ** (E1)
Enery’s Ammer * (E2)
Northumberland Wall *** (E2)
Thin Ice *** (E3…)

More traffic will hopefully keep these routes in good condition and will hopefully slow the rate of decine of the south facing crags in the north.

In reply to JDal:

Well this just made my day! Must hit these crags at the weekend

In reply to JDal & Si:

This is very good. I went to Ravensheugh both 5 and 10 years ago, it seemed to be worse 5 years ago, although The Trouser Legs (national E2 5c) was unclimbably lichenous both times.

3 hours drive and 1 hour walk I can't do puts me off putting the effort in, but if Candle In The Wind, Gates Of Eden, Sandrider, and similar routes get thoroughly cleaned, then I might be tempted back.

In reply to JDal: Haven't visited Ravensheugh before so will pay a visit sometime. I've been looking forward to going back to Great Wanney on a dry day so I have moved that to the top of my list!

Good effort guys.

In reply to Fiend:
>... although The Trouser Legs (national E2 5c) was unclimbably lichenous both times.
The legs bit is covered in a leprose lichen, which is a powdery thing and impossible to remove 100% without resorting to patio cleaner or something. Brushing removes the powder, which then grows wherever it lands if conditions are right. It soon reappears where it was cleaned off. It should be ok for this summer now though.

In reply to Si Litchfield:

Crisis Zone (E7)*** is clean too.

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Better get people to form an orderly queue

In reply to Si Litchfield: Any sign of a CAMP air cam on Rakes Crack?

Sorry, I didnt notice anything in Rakes Crack (but I wasnt really looking either).

Went to Ravensheugh last night and the following routes were also clean enough to climb (plus we gave them a quick brush (but not a thorough clean)):

St. Cuthbert's Crack * (VS 5a) - As it takes some drainage it will always get a bit of dirt, however, its free of soil / plants and the jams / gear are solid.

The Convict (E2 5b) - Low in the grade, good footholds and its easy enough to brush the handholds en route. The topo in the NMC and should traverse right. A direct (as per the topo) has now been done at about E5 6a.

Redskin * (E2 5b) - The bottom half is still dirty (but can be missed by traversing in). Clean enough where it counts at the top. Again the NMC topo is misleading and depicts Hang em' High, Redskin goes further right before traversing left again.

Candle in the Wind *** (E3 5c) - Around the bottom flakes is still a bit dirty (but the hand holds are ok and footholds are big). The top half is clean as whistle and is one of the best E3s around.

In reply to RossKirtley: Yes. It's part of the route now.

In reply to Si Litchfield:
.... The topo in the NMC and should traverse right. A direct (as per the topo) has now been done at about E5 6a.
... Again the NMC topo is misleading and depicts Hang em' High, Redskin goes further right before traversing left again.

Cheers Si, will update the online guide accordingly.

Cleaned and climbed at Ravensheugh yesterday:

Pink Lane * (E1 5b)

More routes now cleaned off on the upper 'Wild West' slab.

Redskin * (E3 5b) - the lower groove can be circumvented on the right but the crux upper section is spotless.
Sitting Bull (E3 5b) - a bit of a one move wonder but still pokey.
Lee Van Cleef *(E4 5c) - new route added between the above routes.
Moccasin Slab * (HVS 5a) and Buckskin ** (VS) both have seen enough ascents not to need brushing.

Further to my last post Pink Lane is brilliant and deserves a second star.