UKH

Has anyone done this?


From this topo it looks amazing... http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-civetta-nuvole-barocche

It might be a bit beyond me though.

I understand difficulties are up to E3, but how sustained is it?

Does anyone know of a good topo, either online or in a book?

What are the normal tactics for it? Bivi beneath it and climb it up and off in a very, very, long day - or carry bivi gear and climb it over a couple of days?

Cheers,

Tom

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Dick Turnbull and Mike Mortimer did it in, I think, summer 2007. Good article from Dick in Climber, November 2007.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Hi Ian,

I don't have that issue. Any chance you scan it and email it to me?

Cheers,

Tom

thesavoygrill@hotmail.co.uk

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

yhm

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Nunn and Boysen did it in 1987. Says in his book they soled the first 1000 ft then he got a broken leg by a rock fall and then used whatever was needed to get to the top where they bivvied.

Any trip reports on Summitpost?

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: I did this three years ago. One of the best routes i've ever climbed. Did it in one long day, about sixteen hours climbing and about six hours to walk off and back round to the refugio.
Some of the positions are fantastic.
The grades and numbers are always a bit misleading on these types of routes. I found the top 300 metres to be the hardest, but on paper these are probably the easiest. These pitches are up big chimneys and corners and were running with water. Technically straightforward but with pro not so good, very wet, and in places loose rock, and you've already climbed about 800 metres by then, it feels hard.
Though like I said it's a great route. I want to go back this summer and try the solleder or messners 'friends route'.
Dan

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Also, I used the alpine club Dolomites guide.
Stayed in the refugio which is a one hour walk to the start of the climb. Very good refugio, staff very friendly and helpful, discount with BMC card!

Cheers for the info so far guys... I'm well keen for some Dolomite action this summer...

Currently my ticklist is:

-Comici
-Messner Finish or Don Quixote on the Marmolada
-Yellow Edge
-Phillip-Flamm

What other must does should be on my list...

Any recommendations of mega classics of any grade up to E2 would be gratefully received...

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: check out the steger on rosengartenspitze. Goes at about E1 easy approach and descent and about 600metre route.
Found the Yellow edge to be a disappointment for such a well known route, never really on edge, more the yellow crumbly face with a bit of edge.
Dan

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: I climbed this route two years ago. Absolutely stunning line, really clear from the hut. I wouldn't bivvy at the bottom as the hut is pretty close and you'll get a better sleep. We ended up bivving at the end of the 19th pitch (first good spot after the first VI+ crux - very easy to A0) as my girlfriend was struggling. There is an even better bivvy spot at the end of the 25th pitch if you need it but as others have said best tactic is to try and do it in a single push. The second VI+ crux feels hard (probably because it's pitch 33!) but can be done at A1 fairly easily. Overall there is a lot of loose rock on this route (belayer beware!), also some wet rock (depending on weather) in the upper corner/chimney and a hell of lot of V/V+ chimneys - fun with a pack on. Expect to find it difficult to fiddle in gear but there's a large number of pegs (if you trust them). This route is definitely an experience!

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: I can also recommend Steger Route on Rosengartenspitzen, doable in a day without bivvy from the valley. Get the first minibus up the valley. Messner Route on 2nd Sella Tower is really good two. Both these are HVS/E1, steady away stuff.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: While you are in the Tre Cima area, the Dulfer on the west face of the Cima Grande is a superb half/two thirds day HVS. Stunning corner line.

Ben

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Considering the Swiss route on the Grand Cap took you 23 hours round trip from the midi (as i've just discovered from another thread) and it's probably about the same sort of grade of climbing as the phillip-flamm, we can do some pretty amusing calculations...

The swiss route is 300m.
Let take 4 hours off for walking to the grand cap and back from the midi. So thats 19 hours to climb 300m.
Thats about 16m per hour.

The phillip-flamm is 1100m. So at 16m per hour it should take you about 68 hours of climbing time.

Now add in the extra time to carry all the food and bivi gear you'll have to carry in order to climb it that slow, plus time spent biviing. Your probably looking at about a week.

Good Luck.

In reply to Pete Graham:

Bit harsh, don't you think?

In reply to Pete Graham:

How long did it take you to climb the Frendo Spur Pete?!

Hugs and everything,

Tom xx

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: It took me and Howard 9 hours i think. A bit slow, unlike your speedy 6.5 hour accent (there must have been a huge stack of pies waiting for you at the top for you to rush up that fast).

You win the all important race this time...

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Well I've done the Yellow Edge, which is much shorter. A great route though we got caught in an unforecast thunderstorm a few pitches from the top, which was terrifying. I'd say one pitch that would rate E1. The rest v diff-HVS. If that one doesn't take too long (5 hours climbing?) you'll know you're on course for the Civetta. I've also done the Capucin Swiss route. With the altitude and all, I'd say that is significantly harder and more sustained.

In reply to Pete Graham: Now now children...

In reply to Pete Graham: To be fair pete, he didn't have his tibloc at the time he did the swiss route. I'll be giving it him back before summer, so I'm sure he'll be fine on this thing.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: me and friend climbed brandler-hasse and modern times 4 yers ago.both were super good routes!!dont know about english grade.