UKH

So I'm planning a trip out to the Dollies as per my Marmolada thread. I've also been wanting to do the Civetta for many years - it's big, hairy and very very scary - but damn it looks fine:

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/46453.jpg

So I've been trying to find out accurate up to date information about it and its not terribly easy to find. Its in my Cicerone press "Classic Climbs in the Dolomites" by Dinoia and Casari by considering the cover page is a picture of two chaps on the Cassin on the Cima Ovest wearing knapsacks, willans harnesses and a Brown helmet, I'm thinking it may not be the most up to date source that money can buy. Whats more it has the Philip Flamm and not much else. And whilst I'd love to do this, I'd also like to know about the alternatives, for example the Comici and Solleder. I'm hoping that somebody might be able to tell me if there are descriptions in the AC guide which I've not invested in yet, or whetehr there is an alternative source which I might have a look at?

In reply to mike kann: http://rossalio.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album01

Wow...

In reply to mike kann:

I seem to remember an article MAYBE by Mike Mortimer doing a route on the face with Dick Turnbull. This might have been in a recent(ish) CLIMB or CLIMBER (?). It might or might not have involved the Philip Flamm... sorry not much use.

In reply to jon: No worries - read it already! My sphicter tightens just looking at the thing! I can't imagine what it'd be like to be in the middle of it!

In reply to mike kann:

It's when it releases that you have to worry.

In reply to mike kann:

One source on here, says they will give details by email;

http://www.ilmonodito.it/relazioni/03011_su_alto_livanos_engl.pdf

In reply to sutty: Cheers Harrogate... The more I look at it the more I want to stand under/at the top of it!

In reply to mike kann:

Ah, now that's different. That comes under the heading of 'routes I would like to have done'...

In reply to jon: I know - I suspect standing under it may put me off standing at the top of it

In reply to mike kann:

They are just routes, but two or three times as long as usual.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152437/monte-civetta.html

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-civetta-nuvole-barocche

In reply to sutty: climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1985-86%20Journal-p44-50.pdf

This is a nice read. Although it does impress on one the seriousness. After all Mr Banner was no slouch...

In reply to mike kann:

Just dug out Nunns book, The Sharp End. Phillip-Flamm can't be that hard, he says they soloed the first 1000ft, roped up and climbed till he broke his leg 3/4 way up and followed on a tight rope and still managed the route in a day, on top by 5pm!!

If you have done some of the VI routes on Torre Venetzia you will be fine, they are harder than most of the bigger routes.

FFS, Comici and Gervasutti did all those routes before I was born, Ok Walter Phillip was of my era.

In reply to sutty: Ah yes, but they were not punters aspiring to something a little beyond. However I did like the bit about Mr Banners chosen method of training being just walking up to it and getting on with it - if you're going to deal with loose rock, pant filling voids etc. it might as well be on the final objective!

In reply to mike kann:

Yea, but what has he done on grit?




















OOOPS.