DMM V twin

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 pottsworth 06 Jul 2007
Has anyone used one of these?
I saw one for the first time in snow and rock and it seemed a bit, well, slight. It is certainly less beafy then say the similar atc xp.
I don't know if it was just me, but holding it in my hand, it didn't really feel that rugged, and I would certainly be dubious of using it for long abs

Am I just being funny, or has anyone else got anything to say about it?
 Reach>Talent 06 Jul 2007
In reply to pottsworth:
It is made of steel isn't it so volume for volume it'll be stronger (but heavier) than an aluminium equivalent.
Simon Marsh 06 Jul 2007
In reply to pottsworth:

It's strange, but one of the nice things about the V Twin is that because it is steel then it dissipates heat much better than equivilent aluminium alloy devices.

We tested this on several long abs in the Slate quarries during the various stages of testing the prototypes - it stays a lot cooler than similar aluminium devices.

In terms of strength the device is about twice as strong as a Bug in a pull test. It is a bombproof bit of kit that flys through all the proposed new tests that are being drawn up by the UIAA at the moment.

Regards

Simon Marsh DMM
karl walton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Marsh:
Just as a matter of interest what test do belay devices have to pass currently?
Is there a CE/British/UIAA standard?
karl walton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Marsh:
Whilst you're here I'd be interested in your reasons for choosing investment casting over other methods?
Simon Marsh 06 Jul 2007
In reply to karl walton:
> (In reply to Simon Marsh)
> Just as a matter of interest what test do belay devices have to pass currently?
> Is there a CE/British/UIAA standard?

No,strangely enough there is not.

This is due to change shortly though and the proposed UIAA standards will also match up belay devices with recommended rope diameters as well.

Regards

Simon
Simon Marsh 06 Jul 2007
In reply to karl walton:
> (In reply to Simon Marsh)
> Whilst you're here I'd be interested in your reasons for choosing investment casting over other methods?

It was the most efficient method for this device.

We are always open to new methods and try to choose the most appropriate one for the item being made i.e, we are just preparing a new belay device for Petzl and this is hot forged from Al alloy.

Regards

Simon
karl walton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Marsh:
> (In reply to karl walton)
> [...]
>
> No,strangely enough there is not.
>
> This is due to change shortly though and the proposed UIAA standards will also match up belay devices with recommended rope diameters as well.
>
> Regards
>
I suspected that as I had failed to find one.
> Simon

karl walton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Marsh:
Are you going to be producing the device for Petzl?
karl walton 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Marsh:
Oh thanks BTW.
OP pottsworth 06 Jul 2007
In reply to Simon Marsh:
Fairy-nuff
I didn't want to sound like I was putting it down atall, particularly considering the amount of work that must go into producing a new product from scratch, I was just struck when I saw it as I had expected it to be beefier.

Cheers for explaining
 gear boy 10 Jul 2007
In reply to karl walton: DMM already manufacture for a few other climbing/outdoor companies including petzl, wild country, lowe alpine, mammut and maybe more....

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