With no prior experience of multi-day mountain biking, Bridget Glaister saddles up to explore a little-used route through the wild and scenic heart of Mid Wales. It's left her wanting more...

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A momentary need for inspiration in the middle of a day at the desk led to some internet searches, and up popped this route. It grabbed my attention and so it was, some two months later, that I found myself setting off with husband Mark on the Trans-Cambrian Way.

This mountain biking route of just over 100 miles traverses the Cambrian Mountains across Mid Wales from Knighton on the English border to the sea at Dovey Junction, near Machynlleth. Though it takes good bridleways, the trail is unmarked on the ground. We cobbled together enough information online to suss out the route and accommodation. I also got a GPX of the route on my watch which I had checked carefully and this ensured no navigation issues at all.

The first climb is christened Puke Hill. You'll know it when you see it

Neither of us had experience of multi-day mountain biking so a three day pub/hotel model suited us, and with our warm clothes doubling up as evening-wear we had little more than a day pack with us. I don't think too many people noticed the plastic bags I wore over my socks in my sodden trainers either, still wet from falling in whilst negotiating the fords.

DAY 1 Knighton to Rhayader

50.5km, 1150m ascent

Setting off from Knighton's George and Dragon Pub, an easy five mile stretch of meandering back roads soothed any apprehension. An abrupt sharp left turn upwards onto a bridleway and our trip into the unknown had really begun both physically (with a quick bike push) and visually with stunning 360 degree views opening up. Thereafter there was lots of high rolling moorland hills with the route taking us over grass and tracks, initially following the "Heart of Wales Line Trail" then Glyndwr's Way. We rode past lots of bemused or terrified sheep, I'm not sure which, but either way they had left enough poo to hang off Mark's bike forks like earrings and lie in wait under my saddle for a squish with my hand later when pushing uphill! We didn't care, we were enjoying ourselves too much.

We only bumped into four cyclists and about five walkers over the whole three days

The rolling hills gave way to a fast downhill road that led across the A483 at Llanbadarn Fynydd. Near the junction there's a great community shop with a café, if you only know to turn slightly right and travel 50m around the bend in the road. A quick stop and then it was time to attempt the first ford of the trip. It was deep, it was slippy – there was no chance!

A bit more grassy ascent, and suddenly we were whizzing down exhilarating single track, until a tiny community café is encountered just as you pop out onto the road at Bwlch-y-Sarnau. When I say café, you open to the door to find all you need to make a brew and sit out on deckchairs. Mark also made use of the USB point donated by a young lad nicknamed Bear whilst I completed the visitors book. Refuelled, and it was straight back onto the bridleway and then a quiet surfaced lane into Rhayader.

Day 2 Rhayader to Llangurig

70km, 1795m ascent

After enjoying fantastic food and a really comfortable night, we were on our way by 8'ish knowing today would be a longer and more technical day. The first climb is christened "Puke Hill". Well, you will know it when you see it and you are already cycling uphill at that point!  We thought a quick push up was allowed until a cheeky farmer suggested from across the field that we should be pedaling, then with a chuckle and a friendly wave, hopped back into his Land Rover and drove off.

The next bit overlooking Caban Coch Reservoir was familiar to me, lovely downhill grassy bridleway and a joy. Next began the rocky technical path. Although usually wet from end to end, today it was largely dry save some deep muddy puddles of unknown stability. With so many miles ahead I'd be tempted to skip this bit for the road to Claerwen Reservoir Dam that runs parallel next time. The only disappointment would be missing the chance to attempt the ford before climbing up to the top of the dam.

The quiet of the forest was only disrupted by an exclamation of horror from Mark when he rode through an exploding cowpat

At almost twice the size of other dams in the Elan Valley the Claerwen Dam is impressive, constructed just after the Second World War and taking six years to complete. We had an enjoyable 30 to 40 minutes ride around its northern shore. This I enjoyed more than I thought I would, as whilst pedalling along I could look back over its twinkling blue water and look forward over the vast wilderness of Mid Wales that was opening up ahead. This section felt remote, well apart from reaching a stretch of tarmac road, where we stopped for a bite to eat and out of the blue some council workers drove past followed by a random jogger!

We were getting low on water by the time we got close to Cwmystwyth, and debated a detour into the village. A quick consultation with the driver of the library bus that had just pulled in confirmed there was nothing there! Luckily I caught the eye of a local outside her home and she was happy to help whilst her dog Benjy barked excitedly at possibly the event of the day with strangers leaning over the gate.

With a very cheery wave, we headed down the road to encounter an interesting mile or so along the valley with spoil heaps from metal mining rising up. An information board told me that a mile-long seam was famous for its copper, lead and iron ore mined in King Henry VIII's time. Thinking about this took my mind off the last long hill of the day. Was I on a track or a road? Maybe both, with its odd deteriorating strip of tarmac up the middle that was perfect to push the wheels on. This took us around to some nonchalant highland cattle and a long cyclable slog upward through a forest. I constantly checked the day's ascent profile on my watch to see if we were nearly there yet, until finally we could enjoy many miles of fast descent on forestry tracks all the way to Llangurig and The Bluebell Inn. This friendly pub has the best pie menu I have seen for years. I won't forget this place, it's a very lively local pub and I'll leave it at that!

Day 3 Llangurig to Dovey Junction

50km, 1211m ascent

We were now in the swing of the morning's routine and ready to leave just after 7am with the aim to arrive at Dovey Junction for a victory train journey of eight minutes to our pre-parked car in Machynlleth. Not that we needed to beat the crowds. On a school half term week we only bumped into four cyclists and about five walkers over the whole three days.

A nicely upward meandering valley led towards another disastrous crossing of a ford and then quite a bit of fun single track through Hafren Forest. Red kites circled upwards on thermals, by now I easily recognised their profile as there was a constant presence of at least one or two in the sky all the way along. Beyond the forest, houses denoted that we were near the hamlet of Staylittle and fortunately some 4G so I could reload the GPX for the day. This was lucky because I doubt there is even a phone signal most of the time on route. We then turned away to cycle up onto hills,  joining the Glyndwr's Way again and with Pumlumon Fawr in the distance, then later Glaslyn Water.

We easily reached the col at Bwlych Oy Greig, the highest point of the day and where the contour lines on the map foretell a sharp descent. I also recognised the stony path from all the blogs, and it cannot disappoint anyone. Our wheels flew over the steep stony descent, small stones flying off along with the caked-on sheep poo, some now three days old. Just as I felt disappointed to reach a gate, a wonderful grassy descent started the delight all over again and took us swiftly to the valley.

We then picked up signs for the Mach 2 and 3 mountain bike trails, turned left and downwards onto the Mach 1 trail so we could end at Dovey Junction. The enjoyable quiet of the forest was only disrupted by an exclamation of horror from Mark when he rode through an exploding cowpat. They must have laid it as a trap at the optimum time to gain just enough crust to hide what lay beneath. He managed to splatter it not only up his front but also over the top and down onto his behind. Merely taking a slight splash myself, I thought it hilarious. It took the edge off facing the finish, well that and a first glimpse of the sea.

The idyllic last leafy and green track, dappled with sunlight took us to the road. Then there was just a quick bit on the main road and we reached the tiny train station at Dovey Junction. On a day of train strikes, I checked the app and triumphantly announced this line was still running; however we were at least 90 minutes early. It was only 2:30pm so we set off pedalling again back towards Machynlleth with a stop worth taking at the Osprey Centre's Café.  

The three days on this trail had been a genuinely adventurous and rewarding trip. The route literally keeps you going with either views to delight you or single track to exhilarate you. I had not appreciated how it would pass such remote territory (no mobile signal, shops, people and not that many houses). The cycling was all good and we benefited considerably from good weather on the trip and a couple of dry weeks before. I imagine those grassy tracks on day one would be much harder in the wet. Seeing the views unfold and the constant presence of red kites throughout was just stunning. It has left me wanting more and with the impression that there is a whole lot of Wales away from the crowds left for me to discover.