Jim had an appointment for dialysis treatment in 30 minutes so we had little time. With no planning or prep, we hastily set up cameras in Jim's back yard and I (John Long) started asking him questions. Jim immediately went to questionably the most controversial event in climbing history: Cesare Maestri's purported 1970 ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, in Patagonia. The day following this interview, Jim, critically ill from Hepatitis C, dropped into a coma. And one of the seminal figures in modern adventure sports passed away soon thereafter.
Hard to watch, especially knowing what happened the following day. John Long did a good job of gently but firmly questioning him. I'd rather remember him in that classic photo of him Westbay and Long in the meadow after their one day ascent of The Nose. Or the brilliant B+W photo looking down on him guiding a stretcher down El Cap in a dramatic rescue. His account of Sea of Dreams is a great read too: https://rockandice.com/snowball/24307/
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Hero.
Edit. Heroes.
A phenomenal interview. You can see him seeing the climb in his mind.... wonderful
That is so moving. The spirit of the guy, right to the end, 'Balls to the wall.'
Hard to watch, especially knowing what happened the following day. John Long did a good job of gently but firmly questioning him. I'd rather remember him in that classic photo of him Westbay and Long in the meadow after their one day ascent of The Nose. Or the brilliant B+W photo looking down on him guiding a stretcher down El Cap in a dramatic rescue. His account of Sea of Dreams is a great read too: https://rockandice.com/snowball/24307/
Yes that was shocking, he looked really bad. Met him in J Tree a few years ago, he was guiding and was friendly and healthy.