Marlene on Trad - Robbie Phillips

"Marlene" is the quintessential Scottish sport climb. So why would anyone feel the need to trad climb it? Robbie Phillips explains why...

9 Aug, 2016
I have climbed several bolted lines on Scottish crags, Vallorcine, Grindelwald Pass, other Swiss crags, all on trad gear. I have taken a whipper onto a cam, when could have clipped a bolt in front of me. In the Alpine mountains, yet again chose to place own gear, even if takes longer to construct belay. In every case above, bolts aren't needed, since good protection is available and IMO allows those without enough experience, to be on routes they're not ready for! Was this particular climb originally done on gear, if not, why not?? Stuart
9 Aug, 2016
It just a lot easier and more convenient if it's bolted. Avoids everyone having to buy their own expensive gear, carry it up there, and have faff around placing it.
9 Aug, 2016
Is this the Marlene that's called Marlina in Highland Outcrops?
9 Aug, 2016
Well I don't know anything about Marlene having never climbed there (much to my loss, I think), but I can think of lots of crags with soft rock that would suffer from repeated falls onto trad gear - loss of placements and also loss of foot and handholds etc. Clearly from watching the video and from what he says, Robbie isn't going to fall off Marlene. But I would... repeatedly!
9 Aug, 2016
I would be genuinely interested to know the reasons for the "dislikes". I am probably not alone among those who would just about recognise every hold on the route by feel, blindfolded, who wish the film had been edited to show more clearly where (relative to the holds) all the gear was going - only recognised some of them!
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