Bob was a very fit forestry worker at the time and used to being in the mountains but hadn't done any significant winter routes. Tower was in spanking condition and we found it free of other climbers. Bob followed the route in good style and we did a good time on it. Just needed a couple of brief stops for a cigy. I think I am correct in saying he was Mollie Porter's brother

Great period photo. State of the art gear!

Ah, that's a tobacco tin.... so not the world's earliest mobile phone after all. Lovely pic.

I think the crampons worn here by Bob were an old pair of mine(?). At the beginning of the year I bought a new type that had 14 points and had an interesting design allowing lots of adjustment. They had a major failing however that no matter how much you tightened the screws they tended to come apart. This happened on a route and the front section fell off. I think they were called something like "avocin". Anybody got any ideas?

Crampons identified as Avcin and designed by a Slovenian Dr France Avcin - info from Ian Parsons and Mick Tighe