Climbing in Catalunya - An Uncertain Future.

© Pete O'Donovan
A year round ban looms on some of Spain's finest Crags.

The Medi Ambient (Environment Agency) of Lleida has recently published a draft proposal detailing measures aimed at protecting certain species of flora and fauna on some of the most important cliffs of western Catalunya. If fully implemented, these measures would severely limit activity in what is generally regarded one of the finest climbing locations in Europe.

The proposals concentrate on an area about 150 — 200 kilometres northwest of Barcelona, in the districts of La Noguera and Alt Urgell, and if these names are not especially familiar to most UK climbers, then perhaps those of some of the cliffs there are: Terradets, Vilanova de Meià, Camarasa and Santa Linya, to name just a few.

"...At this point I should state that, like many climbers, both here and in Spain, I fully support sensible measures for the protection of wildlife — particularly birds of prey, but my experiences on the cliffs of Catalunya over 20 years does not lead me to believe that what I do for a hobby constitutes a major threat to their continued existence!"

"According to my sources in Catalunya, the main instigators behind the draft proposal are a couple of high-ranking officials who apparently view climbers as only slightly higher up the social scale than drug-pushers and paedophiles. On their advice, restrictions have recently come into force in several other Catalan climbing locations"

Read the full article by Pete O'Donovan on UKC HERE


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10 Sep, 2008
Well thought out article Pete with some great pics. I am sure that visiting climbers contribute to the local economies so I hope their views are considered.
10 Sep, 2008
I guess Petrocoptis monysicciana is a typo for Petrocoptis montsicciana Any chance of a link to the draft proposals ?
10 Sep, 2008
Petrocoptis montsicciana, indeed — thanks for spotting the spelling mistake. You can see the full proposal at www.onaclimb.com Click on the top news item on the home page: "Notícies sobre possibles noves restriccions d'escalada a Noguera i Urgell, a 25 d'Agost 2008...." then download the PDF. The only problem is that it's in Catalan rather than Castillian. Regards, Pete.
10 Sep, 2008
This may seem a silly suggestion but can the BMC be any help? They represent the interests UK climbers. A ban on climbing on major crags in the Catalunia area would have a impact on UK climbers. Even if they cannot provide direct help they may provide indirect help with their experience of drawing up access agreements in the UK ie. how to get expert advice to support your case etc. At the very least they can give support their Spanish equivalent climbing organisation.
10 Sep, 2008
I agree with your opinion, with the vast amounts of land, the ban seems ludicrous. And for the past few weeks I've seen huge amounts of vultures and hawks in Rodellar, and they seem to co-habit with climbers with no problem. Also they seem not to have contemplated the opinion of the climbers either, as in some part they just propose a total ban rather than finding a viable solution for everyone. I wonder FEEC has a strong voice as BMC has in UK.
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