Bolts Placed near Famous Salisbury Crags Traverse

© UKC

Historic Environment Scotland (HES) has placed bolts on the well-known Black Wall Traverse in the South Quarry of Salisbury Crags, Edinburgh, in order to secure fencing to close off the climbing area on the currently-banned Radical Road, which runs along the foot of the Crags.

Salisbury crags at sunset.  © TheseKnivesMan
Salisbury crags at sunset.
© TheseKnivesMan

The popular 1.25km footpath was closed in 2018 by the public body after 50 tonnes of rock fell onto the path, prompting safety concerns regarding the cliff's stability. As a result of its closure, climbing on the cliffs rising above the path was also banned. High wire fences and locked gates blocked access to the sites.

Black Wall Crux  © camw
Black Wall Crux
© camw, May 2006

According to photos taken by locals, the fencing is fixed with bolts at two points. One location is situated near the arête at the right end of the The Black Wall Traverse (f6C), where two bolts connected by a chain secure one end. Another connection point to the rock has been made about 100m further south-east of the South Quarry.

The authority had apparently not consulted with climbers, and was likely unaware of the climbers' code of ethics regarding the placement of bolts on a popular traditional climbing and bouldering area, and the resulting damage caused to the rock of a much-loved problem.

A spokesperson for Historic Environment Scotland (HES), told UKC:

"These bolts are temporary removeable fixings installed to provide additional stability to the temporary safety fencing, which has been installed  to prevent unauthorised entry to an area with a high risk of rockfall. This fencing was originally designed to be free-standing, but has now had to be fixed as it was being deliberately and forcibly moved. The safety of Park visitors and our staff is our primary concern."

The fencing is attached to the rock at two points - one of which is the popular Black Wall.  © UKC
The fencing is attached to the rock at two points - one of which is the popular Black Wall.
© UKC

Local climber and mountaineer Stephen Venables, who has previously spoken out against the closure and proposed ban, condemned the latest bolting incident. He told UKC:

'The cretinous vandalism of the health 'n safety squad never cease to amaze me.'

Bolts and a chain secure a section of the fencing.  © UKC
Bolts and a chain secure a section of the fencing.
© UKC

The fence is attached to a popular section of rock, home to The Black Wall Traverse.  © UKC
The fence is attached to a popular section of rock, home to The Black Wall Traverse.
© UKC

In a 2021 risk assessment of the outcrops within Holyrood Park, HES claimed - without quantification - that rockfalls have been occurring in greater volume and frequency in the area and connected this to rising temperatures due to climate change.

Earlier this year, HES considered various options to balance potential public access to the road with risk mitigations. The lowest risk, lowest cost option to permanently close the Radical Road was met with pushback from walkers' and climbers' groups and users in our forums

In response, Ramblers Scotland said that HES needed to make a more holistic assessment of risks, weighing the low risk of rockfall injury against the risks to those using other paths and roads within the park, as well as considering the harm the path closure causes to the economy, landscape, tourism and people's health and wellbeing. 

Ramblers Scotland director Brendan Paddy said: "It is encouraging to hear recent suggestions in the media that the 200-year-old Radical Road may reopen, although Ramblers Scotland is yet to receive any direct update from Historic Environment Scotland. The iconic path offers spectacular views of our capital city and is one of the most popular ways up Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh's top attraction on TripAdvisor. 

"Quite simply, HES must stop managing this world-famous geological feature like it would a crumbling historic building. Walkers should be advised of the risks then be allowed to make their own informed decisions, just as they do everywhere else in Scotland."

When asked about the progress of discussions relating to the park and the possibility of a potential reopening, HES told UKC:

'We are currently developing a Strategic Plan and Stakeholder Engagement Strategy for Holyrood Park, and will consult with key stakeholders next year as part of a new long-term Sustainable Management Plan for Holyrood Park.

'We hope to strike a balance between the current risk from rockfall and access that will provide benefit for all whilst meeting our statutory obligations, and we will continue to explore how we can minimise the current access restrictions on the Radical Road as part of any future proposals. We are reviewing how we assess and manage rock risk safety with specialists from the British Geological Survey and our specialist geotechnical engineers.'


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22 Dec, 2022

I, for one, am SHOCKED that the rest of society gives zero hoots about UK Trad ethics. Who would have thought it?! Don’t they read the UKC forums?!

22 Dec, 2022

Can I just check that I've understood this correctly?

Climbers damage fence Authority that owns the land puts up new, stronger fence Climbers are outraged that new fence doesn't rely solely on natural protection

Also, can we get confirmation as to whether the bolts are titanium, expansion, or pegbolts?

22 Dec, 2022

Although it all sounds a bit ridiculous, it would have been nice if the local authorities had met and spoken with the area reps about things like this.

I know when the council were bolting new rock anchors and grouting the Suspension Bridge Buttress in Avon, they involved the local BMC/ClimbBristol team in the discussions. That may in part have been because they were requesting a temporary halt to climbing on the cliff whilst the works were carried out, rather than trying to enforce an outright ban.

22 Dec, 2022

I somewhat misleading clickbait headline I think.

I was hoping for a proper heated good old bolting debate.

22 Dec, 2022

"This house believes Diabaig should have its belay bolts chopped"

Over to you

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