Dan Middleton, BMC Tech Officer, on UKC

© Dan Middleton Collection
Dan Middleton - BMC Technical Officer  © Dan Middleton Collection
Dan Middleton - BMC Technical Officer
© Dan Middleton Collection

BMC job vacancy, Recruitment Premier Post, 5 weeks at £75pw Dan Middleton is the BMC Technical Officer. He knows all about gear, how it works, how it breaks and how it is made.

Dan was live on the UKC Forums on Monday the 15th October to answer your questions on anything gear related.

Discussions ranged from foxed quickdraws on routes, to bouldering mat standards, to rotting gear on seas cliffs.

Check the thread here

Dan has been climbing for many years and before working at the BMC he worked in outdoor retail and also at Lyon Equipment, the distributor for Petzl, La Sportiva and several other brands.


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15 Oct, 2012
Hi Dan Thanks for coming on the UKC and UKH Forums today. Yesterday you we at Raven Tor running a bolting workshop. Can you let us know how that went? Was it a good attendance and what things did you work through on the day? Alan
15 Oct, 2012
Morning everybody! I'm suitably juiced up on caffiene and ready for your questions about anything climbing gear related.
15 Oct, 2012
Thanks for the invite Alan. I'm a little bleary eyed today after the workshop - it was very cold to begin with at the Tor, and a whole day out there tends to zap you a little bit! The day went really well. We had ten people for the workshop, including Kristian and Jon from the Peak Bolt Fund. I kicked things off with the theory of bolting and an overview of the different systems available. Kristian then provided a masterclass of how to bolt in practice - a true craftsman! We then replaced a few bolts and belays, with the PBF guys directing operations. All in all, a really nice way to spend the day at work.
15 Oct, 2012
I'm just going over my notes for the day, it looks like we replaced the belayers bolt for Revelations, a new belay and most of the bolts for P2 of Rooster Booster, and some new belays and bolts where needed for some of the routes at the R-hand side. I may need correcting here, but I think Hot Flushes got a new crux bolt, Hooligan got fully re-equipped as did Out of My Tree. A great atmosphere at the crag, we managed to work around people climbing without causing too much interuption.
15 Oct, 2012
Hi Dan, it mentions on the UKC front page that you are looking at proposed new standards for bouldering mats, can you elaborate on this? Cheers Gareth
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