UKH

Number 11: Caldwell Confirms FFA of Magic Mushroom

Tommy Caldwell, continuing his historic Yosemite free-climbing sweep, has confirmed the first free ascent of El Capitan's Magic Mushroom (V A3 5.7, ca. 2,900', Burton-Sutton, 1972).

He was joined on the climb by Justin Sjong, who, among other El Cap ticks, has freed Golden Gate (VI 5.13b, Huber-Huber, 2000), the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 A2, Frost-Pratt-Robbins, 1961; FFA: 5.13b Piana-Skinner, 1988) and the Muir Wall (VI 5.9 A2, Chouinard-Herbert, 1965; FFA: 5.13c, Caldwell, 1995). The pair began up the route on May 12; it is believed they climbed it all free ground-up in a push. It is not yet clear whether both climbers freed every pitch.

The free ascent marked the eleventh free climb Caldwell has done on El Cap.

Full report and photos at the Alpinist Website.



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