Delicate Arch Update

Mick Ryan

22nd May, 2006

This has been read 2,126 times

After Dean Potter's free solo of the Delicate Arch, Arches National Park have updated their regulations to now read, "All rock climbing or similar activities on any arch or natural bridge named on the United States Geological Survey 7.5 minute topographical maps covering Arches National Park are prohibited."

Arches acting Chief Ranger Karen McKinlay-Jones said. "It was always our intent that all named arches . . . are closed to climbing. This was clearly understood by the climbing community in Moab as well as by climbers who come here from other places.The park's newly worded climbing ban leaves no room for doubt."

Patagonia Inc who sponsor Dean Potter have come in for much criticism and have issued a press release saying that Dean did not break the law or damage Delicate Arch in anyway. Casey Sheahan, Patagonia CEO, said, "From the early days in the Tetons to the rebelliousness of Yosemite's Camp 4, every generation of climbers has had its run-ins with government regulations that attempt to restrict climber's freedom of expression. At Patagonia we don't control the ways our sponsored athletes conduct themselves except to encourage respect for the environment and uncommon approaches to every challenge. Dean is at the pinnacle of free solo climbing, makes decisions for himself, and has our complete support."

The climbing blogosphere has varied opinions, you can read more at Get Outdoors Blog and Back Country Blog and follow links there to read more and of course down the forums at UKClimbing.com.

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Michael Ryan

11 May, 2006

This is an Op-Ed Piece submitted to the Salt Lake Tribune by Paul M. Jakus, a climber. A couple of years back the Outdoor Retail Show threatened to leave Utah due to the state’s perceived lack of support for the non-motorized recreation community. The retailers argued the state gave too much “weight” to motorized recreation community in public lands management, an argument partially rooted in the belief that the motorized folks flouted regulations designed to limit user conflicts and damage to public lands. Now we have Dean Potter, a non-motorized user of public lands, who decided to climb Delicate Arch in clear violation of the climbing regulations of Arches National Park. Yes, one of their own decided to violate the rules. Or, should I say, “one of our own”, for I am a climber of more than thirty years, and I am outraged by the indefensible actions of Mr. Potter. Potter’s statement that climbing Delicate Arch was not illegal is self-serving and disingenuous at best, and an outright lie at worst. Every climber understands that access to climbing resources on public land is governed by a climbing management plan. Prior to his climb the Arches National Park website specifically stated that all named arches on 7.5 minute USGS maps were off-limits to climbing. In fact, all the climbing management plans in areas with such features have a similar statement. How stupid does Mr. Potter think the Park Service is? How stupid does he think other climbers and the public are? Pretty stupid, I guess. Mr. Potter’s actions demonstrate a blatant disregard for our sport’s history. I remember the days when the number of climbers and the damage we caused was small. But the rapid growth of our community over the past three or four decades meant that we could no longer ignore the damage we caused ourselves and others. In the 1970’s climbers engaged in self-regulation as we moved from exclusive use of rock-scarring pitons to so-called “clean-climbing” techniques. With the advent of climbing management plans in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, climbers banded together in regional and national organizations to negotiate with land managers about access issues. Such plans always designate the formations on which climbing is prohibited. Over the past two decades we climbers have become acutely aware that the actions of one person could affect access for the community as a whole. But along with the growth our sport came the opportunity to move up the social ladder from “dirtbag climber” to “professional climber”. Mr. Potter is a professional climber paid in cash and kind by numerous outdoor equipment companies to have his exploits and photographs—sponsor’s logo prominently displayed—published in outdoor magazines. Indeed, the announcement of Mr. Potter’s ascent of Delicate Arch came from his sponsor, Patagonia. To maintain sponsorship, a professional climber must stay in the public eye, something for which Mr. Potter is apparently richly gifted. About a month ago Mr. Potter’s “slackline” stunt on The Three Gossips (similar to a tight-rope walk between rock spires) caught the eye of climbers and the National Park Service. Less than a week later, all slacklining in Arches was banned. And now Mr. Potter has climbed Delicate Arch, apparently hoping to profit from an action that puts climbing access to Arches at risk to all climbers. Let’s face it: the easiest management policy is an absolute ban on all climbing. Such a policy would be so simple that even Dean Potter could understand it, yet would punish the rest of us. All of which brings us back to the Outdoor Retail Show. The companies that participate in this trade show must band together on behalf of all climbers and condemn the actions of Mr. Potter and the complicity of Patagonia. His actions are clearly motivated by sponsorship, and his sponsors should show respect for other climbers by immediately terminating their relationship with Potter. Only if we, as a community of climbers and equipment manufacturers, assure land managers that we can engage in self-regulation and self-censure will these same managers allow us access for enjoyment by all.

jam

11 May, 2006

Any idea who his sponsors are? If enough climbers provide negative feedback on this idiotic stunt, then future ones would be discouraged.

tony

11 May, 2006

I've been following this on one of the US climbing websites. I think I'm on Dean Potter's side on this one. I've hiked up to Delicate Arch and true enough, it's wonderful sight to see, but I don't know if it needs protection from the likes of Dean Potter. If the park authorities are so bothered about damage, what are they doing about the thousands of hikers who make their way up and down the trails? It's not as if Arches is going to become the new Yosemite and be over-run with hairy climbers.

Simon Caldwell

11 May, 2006

Fair enough if he'd just climbed it and told a few mates. As no doubt many others have before (if not that particular arch, then other banned arches). But the reaction after he launched the publicity machine was fast and entirely predictable. Previously there were some seasonal exceptions from the ban. Now the ban is total.

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