Climbing Restrictions at Stanage

© ROCKFAX
The Ring Ousel season has come around again. In response to the nesting patterns established last year the decision was taken to trial several precautionary bans at Stanage (see this thread).
From Thursday 8th April until Friday 30th April please avoid the following areas - the Rim Area (far right of Suzanne), the Strangler Area and Counts Buttress. If the birds settle elsewhere then these areas may be moved. Judging by the current patterns of behaviour this could include the Grotto Slab and Trinity Crack Areas. Check at the crag and the web sites for more details.

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6 Apr, 2004
Why that date and not the Tuesday after the BH? It will be busy and need a lot of policing.
6 Apr, 2004
In an email I have just received from Matthew Croney of the Peak National Park, he states the following: Please avoid the following key nesting areas from 8th to the 30th April: a. The Rim b. Strangler/Crescent area (Plantation) c. Count’s Buttress Why these sites? These are some of the sites where the birds were singing most often last year, attempting to establish territories but failed to nest. They are also outside the very busiest sections of the Edge, so as not to restrict visitors' activity too much. This advice will be reviewed on 30th April, depending on whether any nests have been built here or not.
6 Apr, 2004
If you have a guidebook handy, could you clarify which routes you think might be affected I'm guessing a The Rim - no routes ? b Strangler - Anything right of Nuke the Midges, as far as Skidoo ? - Less than 10 routes ? Or does the area extend further. c Counts Butress - Nightmare Slab to Trickledown Fairy (20 routes in Rockfax)
6 Apr, 2004
I might need Matthew's help here since I am not entirely sure, however he probably won't be able to give help until he receives the guidebook I have sent him - bit of a catch 22. The Rim is bouldering only. I reckon the whole of Count's is out as you suggest. The area which probably needs clarification is the Strangler Area since that could mean a variety of routes, or hardly any routes.
6 Apr, 2004
Thanks for explaining why Easter has to be in the timeframe. As I read the original posting it looked like the set in stone voluntary ban on certain areas agreed at last BMC meeting. A common sense approach then. Let us hope people stick to the restriction.
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