SW Ridge of Annapurna III climbed

This November, Kenton Cool (UK), Ian Parnell (UK) and John Varco (USA) climbed the South West Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m). They took seven days to climb the line and three days to descend, having acclimatised on the ridge by climbing 1/4 of the way up, before descending to prepare for an alpine-style ascent. Although there were some fixed ropes on the lower section, left from a previous attempt by a Slovenian team, they only used these to descend. The ridge was not technically difficult, but it was very loose with rock of 'talcum power' consistency. There was one technical crux low down on rock and some steeper (Scottish 5 or 6) ice at c6,200m. The team benefited from 5 weeks of perfect weather (1 day of snow). There were some cultural differences concerning culinary choices (the Brits coming from the "starve to win" camp), but overall, the team got on well and found that climbing in a three was the best option for this route, providing 'down time' for each member.

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13 Nov, 2003
Have to admit that as a flatland living bumbly who gets their news from the mags, the name John Varco isn't familiar to me. Impressive stuff.
13 Nov, 2003
John Varco is the guy on the patagonia advert of the guy in the heinous offwidth if my memory serves me. Sponsored by Mountain hardwear.
13 Nov, 2003
Top effort tho.... John
13 Nov, 2003
Your details are at the top of the page with a list of threads.
14 Nov, 2003
Who the hell is John Varco? Another silent but deadly alpinist that goes out and does the stuff with little publicity? Profile Rob?
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