UKH Hills - UK Bouldering Firsts

Contributed by huwbrace Feb/20 - This public hilllist has been seen 879 times

A list of the first ascents of non-eliminate problems at each grade. Traverses are in a seperate list below.

Some problems were originally the starts to routes, but the nature of bouldering has evolved over the years and this list represents the progression of climbing standards on what we currently call boulder problems.

5 - Victorian Climb - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895

6A - Flipper - Robin Hood's Stride - ? - 1903 photo (Flipper is the climb on the right, without the cheat stone)

6A - Spider Wall - Ilkley - ? - 1930's? video

6A - Crease Direct - Crookrise - Allen Austin - 1957 (beats Crucifix Arete by a year and The Villain by two)

6A+ - Teaspoon Variation - Almscliff - Arthur Dolphin - 1948

6A+ - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s? video photo

6B - Janker's Groove Direct - Froggatt - Don Whillans - 1948?

6B+ - ?

6C - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 1972 (beats Horror Arete by two years) video

6C+ - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s? (given 7A, but generally regarded as a bit soft.) video

7A - Barleymow - Almscliff - Tony Barley - 1966 video

7A+ - Ron's Crack II - Crookrise - Ron Fawcett - 1974 (beats Red Baron and Desert Island Arete by two years) photo

7B? - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 1970s? (grade reflects original state - it used to have better footholds) photo

7B - Bald Pate Superdirect - Ilkley - Andy Brown - 1980

7B+ - Lay-By Arete - Slipstones - Paul Ingham - 1983 (beats West Side Story by two years) video

7C - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982 (the start to a route, not generally considered a boulder problem, though it is probably possible as such.)

7C - Sole Power - Froggatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1983 video photo

7C+ - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Haston - 1979

7C+ - Monoblock - Pex Hill - Joe Healy - early 80s photo photo photo

8A - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 1987 video

8A+ - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988 (a tight line. holds have altered.) video

8B - Isla de Encanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999 video

8B+ - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001 photo

8C - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002 photo

Mina on Careless Torque © Nick Brown — Mina on Careless Torque
© Nick Brown

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Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

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Top 12 photos of this hilllist

James Pearson on Careless Torque in the mist and fog

Sam Nunn taking the full ride on Sole Power

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
1	Victorian Climb	HVS 5a *	4	?		Simon's Seat
2	Flipper Arête	f6A ***	416	?		Robin Hood's...
3	Spider Wall	f6A	72	?		Ilkley (Cow and...
4	Crease Direct	f6A+ **	411	?		Crookrise
5	Teaspoon Variation	f5+ **	208	?		Almscliff
6	Wall of Horrors Start	f6A+ *	331	?		Almscliff
7	Janker's Groove	VS 4c *	666	10m		Froggatt Edge
8	Syrett's Roof	f7A **	388	8m		Almscliff
9	Tom's Original	f7A *	360	?		Stoney Middleton
10	Barley Mow	f7A	59	6m		Almscliff
11	Ron's Crack II	f7A+ *	120	?		Crookrise
12	Jerry's Arete	f7B+ ***	41	?		Bridestones (West...
13	Bald Pate Superdirect	E6 6c *	2	12m		Ilkley (Cow and...
14	Lay-By Arete	f7B+ ***	101	?		Slipstones
15	Central Wall (Aid Route)	A2 **	5	20m		Dib Scar
16	Sole Power	f7C ***	55	?		Froggatt Edge
17	Haston Dyno	V10 **	-	9m		The Breck
18	Monoblock	f8A ***	5	8m		Pex Hill Quarry
19	Careless Torque	f8A ***	19	?		Stanage Plantation
		6 e, 34 stars	3,263	73m	19